ZLwentietb Century Instruction Book
7"^
ARTISTIC
Cadie^ Sailor System
• . -
MWI^
Innnill
(.COPYRIGHTED)
VIENNA LADES' TAILORING INSTITUTE
5 W. 14th ST.. NEW YORK CITY. U. S. A.
/
TO TAKE MEASURE.
MAY. 7 '902
CLASS? CV XXC. NO.
aim**
COPY "
TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
BUST.— Stand behind the lady— This measure is
taken over the most prominent point of the bust and
well up over the shoulder blades in the back — take this
measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line
will be smooth — put this measure down I inch more
than the tape line calls for — " do not forget this. "
WAIST. — Take this measure around the smallest
part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch.
FRONT. — From collar bone to waist line in front —
add 1 inch to this measure.
BACK — From joint in neck to waist line.
UNDER ARM. — Take this measure well up under
the arm and down to the waist line — put this measure
down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for.
NECK. — Around the bare neck easy.
ARM'S EYE.— Around the arm snug just over the
point of the shoulder.
ARM MEASURE.
1st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow — the
hand resting on the chest.
2d. From point of elbow to joint on wrist.
3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the
shoulder with the arm bent — take this measure
snug.
4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the
elbow — take this measure in the same manner.
5th. Around the hand tight
SKIRT. — From waist line the length desired.
HIPS. — Around the hips "easy" six inches below
the waist line.
TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
Be very careful in taking the back and under arm
measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would
require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm
measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder
and dot 1 0 should be only three inches from dot 9.
Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a
16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot
1 0 should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will
apply to othejf meaeureii-^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back
measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be
9 inches. ^^"iV:\:l:\-. ■*:.••.
TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN.
Tie a cord around the waist tight and press down
to the point of mps, and take the measure the same
as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken
loose.
Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape
line across the back of the neck. Carry the ends for-
ward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the
arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw
very snug straight across the back and place a pin or
mark at the upper edge of the tape line, in the center
of back, then measure from the large joint in the neck
to the pin or mark. This measure must be taken
exactly as the instructions call for. Do not deviate i
of an inch. See special instruction for applying this
measure. ,
Measure down line A from line B the height of shoul-
der measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from
dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and
\ of the bust measure straight out and place dot 1 1 .
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot 1 1 .
Finish the balance as per general instructions.
Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have
a narrow back in proportion to their bust , measure.
Take the width of back measure., starting at the cen-
ter of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the
neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm
hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of
the bust measure in locating dot 1 1 . Take a 42 bust
and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be
6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for
a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin-
ning at dot 2. In drafting the front take the differ-
ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting
the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6 — 4 — and add this
to 42 would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist
measure in drafting the front. Use these same propor-
tions in drafting for other measures.
IMPORTANT.— The measure should be taken ex-
actly as the instructions call for — do not deviate to
please anyone. The bust, waist and neck measures are
taken in even inches — for instance, should the waist
measure be 23, put down 23 — should it be nearest 22,
put it down 22 — take the bust and neck measure in
the same manner.
See that the lady stands natural and on both feet.
Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends
to wear the dress over, and especially inquire about the
corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a perfeet
measure.
If you have any doubt about the measure take it
over again before the lady leaves. Do not use a cord
or belt in taking the measure (except for children) as
it will make your basque short waisted in back and
front. For a very full bust the front measure should
be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line
calls for.
S
These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only in connection with our system.
\b~9Q£l LUirev
'J
BUST
46
BUST
49
Waist
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
Waist
28
29
30 181
32
33
34
35
36
S'l
38
39
Bust No.
;24
12.!
m
I2i
121
121
121
12
12
U*
1M
HI
114
m
Bust No.
12|
12|
121 121
12 J
L2|
121
121
121
12
12
12
Darts
4
H
2?
2-1
H
2
2
]1
H
14
H
u
H
il
Darts
21
21
2S
a*
21
21
2
n
11
l|
Is
1J
Center Back
i
i
11
11
\\
1}
H
1*
11
14
If
!?
2
21
0. B.
1
1
u
i|
U
1*
J*
n
'1
2
2
21
Side Body
2
2-;
2;,
2,',
2.',
H
2?
23
3
31
31
3{
31
4
3. B.
21
2,1
21
2J
4
31
31
»i
H
34
34
«4
Under Arm
3*
H
H
34
H
H
31
4
4
H
H
41
*t
41
*2
U. A.
31
31
34
4
4
4
4*
4i
H
44
44
4 1
BUST
50
BUST
51
BUST
52
Waist
32
33 ,34
35 36
37 38
39
40
Waist
53
34 35
36
37
38
39
40 I Waist
35 36
37
38
39
40 |41
Bust No.
13
13
13
12112?
121
121
12}
121
' B. No.
13
13
121
121
121
124
121
121! B. No.
131131
13
13
121
121,12}
Darts
21
2
2
li
1-
H
1
1 j
H,
Darin.
21
21
2
11
I),
1*
H
11
Darts
n
21
2
11
u
1$ ]i
Center Back
n
11
11
11
n
11
^
i:!
2
C B.
11
H
11
H
n
11
11
2 1
C. B.
2
2
2
2
21
21 21
Side B6dy
2i
H
3
3
31
31
3J.
31
4
S. B.
(
31
31
31
31
31
34
33
S. B.
31
34
31
ok
.^
31
*i
Under Arm
31
H
3f
4
4
4
41
41
*1
U. A.
4
4
41
41
44
41
41
411
U. A.
41 4*
44
44
41
41 0
CHILDREN'S MEASURES. One Dart Only.
BUST
Waist
Bu?t No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
BUST
21
22
23
24
19
20
21
5
5
5
4}
1
5
1
54
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
Waist
Bust No.
Front Wai4
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
19
20
21
22 1
H
51
5
5
4|
51
51
51
1
1
1
1
1
•1
11
2
2
2
21
21
Waist
Bust No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
19
20
21
22
23
51
54
54
5J
54
41
51
54
5|
6*
1
1
1
1
1
If
11
2
2
2
2
2
2
21
21
Waist
Bust No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
20
21
22
23
51
51
51
51
51
51
H
61
1
1
1
H
11
11
11
2
2
2
2
2
24
51
6
11
2
2
25
27
Waist
Bust No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
21
22
23
24
25
61
61
Gl
6
6
54
6
6j
61
63
1
1
11
H
li
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
01
~4
21 1
Waist
Bust No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
21
22
23
24
25
26
64
64
64
64
6}
64
54
6
61
6i
7
7
1
1
1?
H
11
14
2
2
2
2
2
21
2
2
2
21
21
21
Waist
Bust No.
Front Waist
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
21
61
Dt. 1J
n
1
2
2
22
61
r t.
«;
1
23
61
?
2
2
24
61
7
1
2
2
25
61
n
11
2
2
26
61
74
11
21
2
27
63
73
11
H
2 J
BUST
28
29
Waibt
Waist No.
Bust No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
2) 21
22 23 |2t
25 20
27
28
71
71
71
711 71
71 71
7
7
71
71
71
71 7
7
74
71
8
H
11
11
3
4
1
1
1
1
1
11
n
11
11
2
2
2
2
2
21
21
21
24
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
21
21,
Waist
Bust No.
Waist No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
21)
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
71
71
74
74
74
74
74
71
71
71
74
73
71
71
71
74
73
8
21
2^
2
I,',
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
n
11
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
21
21
21
21
21
21
21
21
24
24
23
71
H
11
21
24
BUST
30
31
Waist
Bust No.
Waist No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
20
21
22
23
24
23
26
27
:H
74
74
74
74
71
■ 2
74
74
74
74
71
71
71
71
73
•4
71
71
81
71
21
21
21
11
1
11
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
n
11
U
2
2
2
2
2
21
21
21
21
9'
01
-2
24
24
^2
2i
24
21
24
Waist
Bust No.
Waist No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
19
8
6?
21
1
2
21
20 121
8 8
H
H
1
2
71
2 1
1
2
2
22
8
7J
11
1
2
21
23
8
71
11
1
2
21
21
25
8
71
11
11
1?
U
21 21
24' 24
2*1
8
n
ii
21
21
27
8
81
11
1
21
21
28
8
84
1
11
2*
24
BUST
31
BUST
32
BUST
33
Waist
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
W.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Bust No.
n
">*
7$
H
74
7J
7*
B. No.
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
Darts
2
2
l|
14
1*
1
ft
D.
H
H
13
1J
il
1
3
Center Back
3
1
1
1
1
1
H
C. B.
4
1
1
1
H
H
11
Side Body
2*
n
21
2i,
2*
24
24
S. B.
2
2
2
2i
21
21
21
"Under Arm
n
n
24
n
25
n
21
U. A.
2i
a*
»J
2|
2i
24
2|!
w.
B. No.
D.
C. B.
S. B.
U. A.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
84
81
84
81
81
8i
8J
81
2
11
1|
1*
H
11
1
A
3
4
j}
1
1
1
U 11
n
2
2
21
21
21
2i 2-i
24
2i
2J
2'
n
n
2J
2'
24
27 "
81
1
H
n
BUST
34
BUST
35
Waist
Bust No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
19 20
81
1;
1
81
2<
21
9
21
21
8|
if
1
2
21
22
81
H
1
21
21
23
81
ljj
M
2<
24
81
11
11
n
24
25
8J
1
11
2i
24
26
s
n
2|
27
1
2i
Waist
Bust No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
8i
81
81
21
21
2
11
11
11
If
n
1
X
7
n
1
1
1
1
11
11
1?
1*
ll
H
2
21
21
21
2*
2*
2i
2*
2*
3
2i
2i
n
21
2*
H
21
3
3
3
BUST
36
BUST
Waibt
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30 j
W.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26 27
28
29
30
31
32
Bust No.
91
91
91
91
91
91
9
9
9
81
81
8!1
B. No.
9!
91
n
91
91
91
91
91
11
91
91
9
9
9
9
Darts
24
n
2
2
1?
11
H
11
11
1
1
I1
D.
2i
24
21
21
21
2
11
14
1*
H
1
1
R-
Center Back
1
1
1
11
11
11
11
11
14
n
n
11
C. B.
3
4
1
1
1
1
11
11
H
H
14
n
11
2
2
Side Body
2
21
2
21
24
2i
n
21
21
n
3
311
S. B.
If
2
2
21
2?
21
21
3
3
3
3
31
31
34
Under Ann
n
24
n
n
2|
n
2|
3
3
31
31
31
U. A.
24
n
21
21
3
3
3
3
3
3
31
31
3i
H
BUST
38
BUST
39
Waist
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
W.
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
Bust No.
10
10
10
10
10
10
94
91
94
94
9
9
9
9
B. No.
101
101
101
101
101
101
101
10
10
91
91
9*
Darts
24
24
21
21
2
11
11
14
14
11
11
1
1
1
D.
24
2?
2J
2
1?
11
14
n
11
1
1
Center Back
1
1
1
11
11
11
14
14
14
11
11
11
2
21
C. B.
1
1
1
1
11
11
11
11
H
14
M
11
Side Body
11
21
21
21
24
2i
2f
21
3
3
34
34
34
31
S. B.
21
21
21
2i
24
24
24
2f
21
3
3
31
Under Arm
24.
24
24
24
'21
24
3
3
31
31
34
34
31
31
U. A.
2i
24
24
21
24
21
21
3
3
3
31
31
BUST
40
BUST
41
Waist ^2
23 ,24
25
26
27 28
29
30
31
32
33
Waist
22
23
24
25
26
27
28 ,29
30
31
32
33
34
Bust No.
104
104
101
104
10
10
10
91
91
91
94
94
Bust No.
101
104
104
104
10
10
10
91
9f
91
94
94
94
Darts
24
21
21
2
n
11
14
11
ll
1
1
1
Darts
21
24
24
21
21
2
If
If
14
11
n
1
1
Center Back
1
1
11
11
14
14
14
14
14
H
If
2
Center Back
1
1
11
11
11
11
n
14
li
1J
If
11
11
Side Body
2
2
21
n
24
n
21
21
3
3
31
34
Side Body
21
21
21
21
21
3
3
31
3^
31
34
34
31
Under Arm
21
21 21
2%
-3
3
3
31
31
34
31
31
Under Arm
3
3
31
31
34
3?
34
31
31
31
4
4
H
BUST
42
BUST
43
Waist
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
Waist
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
60
31
32
33
34
Butt No.
11
11
11
11
104
101
101
101
101
101
10.1
101
101
Bust No.
HI
HI
HI
HI
11
11
11
103
101
101
104
104
Darts
n
24
24
21
24
2
11
11
Is
14
14
11
1 1
Darts
23
24
21
21
2,'
2
If
1?
14
14
11
1
Center Back
1
u
11
H
11
11
11
14
14
14
n
If
11
Center Back
1
1
11
11
11
11
11
14
14
If
11
11
Side Body
2
2
21
21
24
24
24
n
3
31
34
34
34
Side Body
2
2
21
21
24
21
2f
3
3
31
31
31
Under Arm
24
21
H
2f
31
3*
31
34
3i
31
31
31
31
Under Arm
3
3
3
3
31
31
31
31
34
34
3! 31
BUST
44
BUST
45
Waist
Bust No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
114
21
1
21
3
24 25 26 27 28
4*
24
1
21
3
114
24
11
24
3
111
21
11
HI
2
il
24
n
9 30 31 32
HI
11
11
24
3|
HI
11
14
2f
31
11
14
14
21
34
11
14
11
3
3J
3 34 35 Waist
11
11
11
101
li
x4
12
101
1
11
3i 34,
311 31
Bust No.
Darts
Center Back
Side Body
Under Arm
24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 135 36
12
21
1
2
21
12
24
1
2
21
12
24
11
2
3
12
21
11
n
3
hi
21
ii
24
31
HI
11
H
HI
if
il
24
31
114
If
14
21
34
111
14
H
21
34
HI
11
14
2|
34
niui
HI
1
If
311 3l| 34
3! 33 3?
Ill 1
141 14
BUST
46
BUST
47
Waist
25
26
27
28
29 130 131
32
33
34
35
36
37 1
Waist
26
27
2S 29
30
31
32 33
34
35
36
37
38
Bust No.
12
12
12
HI
111 111 114
114
114
111
n|
111
11
Bust No.
12
12
12
113
Uf
11?
11*
114
114
HI
HI
11
11
Darts
Center Back
21
1
21
11
24
21
11
2|
n
2
11
2
14
11
H
14
14
14
14
il
11
11
11
2 1
Darts
C. B.
21
1
21
11
24
11
21
11
2
11
11
11
14
1^
V
14
1*
14
1?
il
11
11
11
2
Side Body
2
21
21
21
24
2f
3
3
31
34
3?
3|
4
S. B.
21
24
24
24
24
2!
23
3
3,
3i
31
4
4
Under Arm
31
H
31
34
3 J
31
31
31
?i
4
4
4
41
U. A.
3i
34
34
31
31
H
4
4
4
41
41
*4
41
H
For long shoulders draft
line H Vx inch longer than
the proportionate shoulder
measure and place dot 1 1 .
Measure straight down
from dot I I and 3/6 inch
in and place dot 12. Use
letter V to draft line K.
Bust ... 3 +
Waist -- "
Front . _.--.... 14
Back -. - 16
Under Arm 8
Neck _ 11
Ann's Eve - - ' 6
To Locate Dot 12.
Arm's Eye Measure.
12, 13 and 14 — 1
15 " 16 — 2
■ I? << 18—2^
19 " 20 — %
21 " 22 23/
CENTER BACK.
Draft lines A and B -'4' inch fr°m the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck
dot 2 down line A fr°m 'ine B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
#
%
3/8
X
^8
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
12
»3
h
'5
16 17
18
Dot 3
H
H
1
iyi
i#
I -> 8
iy2
«#| '":4
1 ", 2
2 '8
34 inches.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from -i"c
A and place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure down line A from line B the length of back measure and place dot 4.
Draft line B straight out from dot 4 about 5 inches.
Measure one inch from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5.
Measure the distance 'from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center
back and place dot 6.
Draft line E beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex-
tending 34 inch below.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7.
Measure }4 inch in towards line A fr°m dot 7 and place dot 8.
Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 8.
Measure 6j4 inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 9.
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. See table on curve.
Measure 2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12.
Place the point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12.
Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6.
Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6.
SIDE FORM.
Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting the short arm on
dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12.
Measure zj4 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N.
Measure 2}4 inches from dot 6 on line B and place dot 3.
Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A t0 dot 3 extending '_, inch below.
Measure the distance given in the table for the width of side body from dot
3 and place dot 4.
Measure l/x inch from dot 2 on line N and place dot 5.
Place letter fl on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5.
Measure I l/2 inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 8.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6.
Measure )/■, inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8.
Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 and place dot 9.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Draft line F from the end of line A to dot 10.
UNDER ARM FORH.
Measure 3 inches from dot 4 (in side form) and place dot 2.
Measure out from dot 2 the width of the under arm form as given in the
table and place dot 3.
Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side form and then
measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure I }(. inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7.
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2.
Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 1 ,
Measure 1 \A, inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9.
Measure 1 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place letter A orl dot 3 and draft line F to dot H.
■3U&.C
C SW\ SViA
For long
shoul-
ders draft
line Q
y2 inch
more
than the p
ropor-
tionate shoulder
measure
a n d
place dot
22.
Measure
itf
inches in
from
dot 23 and
place
dot 24.
To Locate Dot io From Dot 8.
Waist Measure.
1 8 to 20- . I
21 tO 23 1^
2+ to 27 \y
27 & 28 1^
29 & 30 . . 2
3' & 32 -- 2%
Above 32 inches the same proportion.
To Place Dot 1 2 From Dot 1 1 .
Waist Measure.
19, 20 and 21 — y inch.
22, 23 and 24 — 34 "
25, 26 and 27 — 1 "
28, 29 and 30 — 1% "
Above 30 inches in same proportion.
inch
FRONT.
Draft line A ' %i inches from the edge of goods.
Draft line B one 'nch ft"001 the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table (according to size of neck} under
dot 2 on 'me A fr°m hne B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
2
»tf
z%
2H
3
iVa
1%
3%
4
■5
16
3' 3
4J^
'7
3*
4 -'u
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
I 2
•3
14
18
Dot 3
2
2 y
*tf
238
zy2
2^|234
2-8
3
TTX
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B frcin line
A and place dot 3.
Measure Ag inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X.
Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4.
Measure ' 4 of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5.
Draft from dot X to dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out beginning 6
inches from dot Jj,
Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for Bust num-
ber and place dot 0.
Measure the length ot under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place
dot 7.
Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6.
Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7,
Measure 2 inches down line E from dot (J and place dot 9.
Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line G out 4
inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4.
Measure 1 y inches on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10.
Measure the width of the dart, as given in the table, from dot 10 and place
dot 11.
Measure y inch from dot \\ and place dot 12.
Measure y inch more than the width of the first dart from dot 12 and place
dot 13.
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the first dart and add
y? inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14.
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the second dart and add
. y inch, then measure that distance on fine G from dot 4 and place dot 15.
Place the V2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft line I using the y mark.
Draft lines J and K >n 'ike manner.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16.
Measure y inch in from dot 16 and place dot 17.
Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 17.
Draft lines BI) N and 0 parallel with line L.
Measure 2 y inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place letter A on dot 1 and draft line P to dot 19.
Measure by inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20.
Measure I y inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q y
inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22 (tee table
on curve for distance}.
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D.
Measure I y, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23.
Measure y inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24.
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6.
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22.
The front can be curved if desired.
Place letter E on dot X and draft a curved line T to meet line A I l/i.
inches below dot 4.
Place letter H on the end of line T and draft to meet line A 3 inches below
dot 8. See dotted lines.
Important — The front shoulder is drafted y inch shorter than the back and
must be stretched to meet the back.
TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT
WAIST MEASURE.
1 8 to 20 . . . 2
21 " 22
23 " 24 -
25 " 26-
27 " 28
z9 " 3°
31 " 32 - -
Above 32 inches in same proportion.
i-io of Waist Measure.
inches
2X
3
VA
BIAS DART.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes :
Place dot 9 on line E 1 l/> inches from dot 6.
Measure 1 yi, inches out from dot 13 and place new dot 13.
Place the y2 mark on new dot 13 and draft to dot 15.
Draft line 0 parallel with line N.
Measure 1 y2 inches straight out from dot ^ and place new dot 7.
Measure 3{ inch straight up from new dot 1 and place dot X.
Draft from dot X to dot 13.
Place the corner of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot X the length of under arm and place new dot 6.
Place letter A on dot X and draft line E to new dot 6.
Measure 3^ inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot 18.
Measure ; inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place letter A on dot X and draft to dot 19.
Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot 23 2 inches up
from line J} and drafting to new dot 6.
For a stout lady with high or full shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above
dot 2 and place a new dot 3 3/j[ inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted
lines. For slender forms take a small plait in the lining at the point of the bias
dart. See dotted lines.
WAIST WITH ONE DART.
Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the darts, omitting line E-
Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10-
Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 4.
Extend line H to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8-
Measure 2^ inches from dot 10 and place dot H on line F-
Measure 1 inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and
place dot 12-
Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on line G-
Place the V2 mark on dot \\ and draft line I to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft line J.
Draft lines L and M straight down.
Measure % inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15.
Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X.
Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X.
Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6-
See diagram.
Measure 3 inches out from dot 15 and place dot 18-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19.
THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS.
There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street,
and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit
and workmanship. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that
commands respect. For business, shopping, or railroad travel, it has no equal.
You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being treated as one, no mat-
ter where you go. The market is full of Drafting Machines, Charts, and other
contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. Not one of them can properly cut a
tailor fitting costume— that can be done only on the material the same that a
merchant tailor cuts for a man. First-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You
cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. Investigate
before you make an investment.
BIAS FRONT.
Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A
from line B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
This waist is very effective when the
bust is full with a small waist. It can be
cut with good effect on a true bias of both
lining and material.
Fifty (S50.00) dollars Reward will be
paid for the conviction of any one infring-
ing on any of our copyrights.
Dot 2
*Y*
-U
3
3 M
5/2
3H
4
4'A
Neck size
IO
I I
1 2
"3
14
15
16
•17
Dot 3
*ti
2}i
3
3*A
3#
33/&
2>%
35/8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B
from line A and place dot 3.
Measure y2 inch straight out from dot 2 and place new dot 2-
Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure y^ the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place
dot 4-
Measure yi. the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place
dot 5.
Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5-
Measure the distance given in the table for bust number out line D
from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7-
Measure the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7 and place
new dot 7-
Place letter A Y2 inch above new dot 7 and draft line E from new dot
7 to dot 6-
Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place
dot 8-
Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line 6 to new dot 7-
Place letter E on new dot 2 and draft line F to meet line A one inch
below dot 4.
Place letter 0 on the end of line F, the edge of curve on dot 8 and
extend line F 3 inches below dot 8.
Draft a one inch dart half way between dots 4 and 5, extending 2^
inches out. See diagram.
Measure l/s the distance between dots 7 and 8 on line G from dot 8
and place dot 10.
Measure the width of the second dart from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place the corner of the square on dot 4 and draft line H straight out 3
inches, beginning 1% inches from dot 4-
Measure straight up from dot 10 and place dot 12 on line G-
Place letter A on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12-
Turn the curve over and draft line R\
Measure $lA inches straight down from the centre of the dart and place
dot 13-
Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 13-
Draft line M straight down from dot H.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot X-
Place letter A, curve in, on new dot 7 and draft to dot X-
Measure 6% inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 14-
Measure i}( inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15-
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 15 and draft line M.
l/2 inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 16-
Draft line N straight down from dot 16 to line D-
Measure 1% inches up line N from line D and place dot 17-
Measure y2 inch straight in from dot 17 and place dot 18-
Place letter D on dot 18 and draft line 0 to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 18 and extend line 0 to dot lfj-
MEASURE.
Bust 36
Waist 22
Front 14
Back .- --- 16
Under Arm - 8
Neck 12
Arm's Eye — 16
CENTRE BACK.
Draft lines A and B H mch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance ' given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from
line R and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
H
Neck Size J 7
3 ,
iya
1 1
lM
12
i-H;
«3
I1/.
H lS
iM
yk
16 | 17
,8
i7A 2
2}i
Dot 3
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4.
Measure 3+ inch out from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5.
Measure the distance given in the table for width of center back on line D
from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Draft line E from dot 2 through dot 5 extending -^ inch below.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and pl*ce dot 7.
Measure ' . inch straight in from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Draft line f from the end of line E t0 dot 8.
Measure 6 ' .. inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 9.
Measure 4!^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A °n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H (See table on curve.)
Measure 1 34 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12-
Measure >-2 inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 13-
Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12-
Place letter V on dot 12, the edge of curve on dot 13 and draft line K
from dot 12 to letter J on the curve.
Reverse the curve. Place letter N on dot 6 and continue line K to dot 6-
Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6-
SIDE FORH
Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting, the short arm on
dot 12 and draft line N straight out.
Measure 2 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 1 on line N
Measure 2 inches out line D frorn dot 6 and place dot 2-
Measure '_' inch from dot 2 and place dot 3-
Place letter" V on dot 1 the edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line A from dot
1 to letter J on the curve.
Place letter A on the end of line A and continue line A % inch below dot 3.
Measure out from dot 3 the width of side form and place dot 4
Measure 1 }i inches from dot 1 on line N and place dot 5-
Place letter (J on dot 5 and draft line B to dot 4-.
Measure 2j4 inches down line B fr°m dot 5 and place dot 6.
Place the point of curve on dot 1 and draft line (J to dot 6-
Measure 1 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot ^ and place dot 8-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8-
Measure ]/2 inch in from dot 2 and place dot 9-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Draft line P from the end of line A to dot 10-
UNDER ARH FORH
Measure 314 incnes out from dot 4, *» side form, and place dot 2-
Measure the width of under arm, as given in the table, out from dot 2 and
place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side brm and then
measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4
Measure 1 yx inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6
Place the corner of square on dot 3 tne edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7-
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2-
Place the letter U on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7-
Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 on line D and place dot 8-
Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9-
Measure 1 inch from dot 3 and place dot 10-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
«< 1 T¥ __ J_. O .... 1 J-.,!", i;„o V t» ,t, f 11
MEASURE.
Bust 34
Waist — 22
Front 14
Back . — 16
Under Arm 8
Neck 11
Arm's Eye 16
SHIRT WAIST— FRONT.
Draft line A 1 Y\ inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B ' mcn from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from
line B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
1
7
2
8
9
■34
10
23/a
2
1 1
2^
1 2
2%
*H
3
is
3
z%
lV2
33/4
Neck Size
13
14
2^
16
17
18
Dot 3
2>£
*x
2^
234
3rt
3>4
3^
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr°m line
A and place dot 3.
Place letter (J on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure I inch less than 3^ of the arm's eve measure down line A fr°m line
B and place dot 4-
Measure I inch less than 1'2 the arm's eve measure down line A from line B
and place dot 5-
Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5.
Measure the distance of bust number from dot 5 °!1 line B and place dot (J.
Measure straight down from dot B the length of under arm and place dot 7.
Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6.
Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure 2'2 inches out from dot 7 and place dot 18.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19.
Measure 6 ) i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20.
Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21.
Place letter A °n dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q '•< inch
less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D.
Measure I lA inches up line R from line B and place dot 23.
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24.
Place letter fl on dot 24 aud draft line S to dot 6,
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22.
When a tight fitting lining is desired draft the darts the same as for a plain
waist.
BACK.
Draft lines A and B 3/( inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A fr°m
line B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
1
I
8
1
iy&
1 1
1%
Ijfl IA8
I 3/8| I ^
'#l»#
Neck Size
7
9
i]4
10
I 2
»3 j '4
1 5 1 16
17 |i8
Dot 3
1 j y
1-V1
2
2)4
*x
23/6 2)4
z^i 2 34
2 "si 3
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr°m line
A and place dot 3.
Place letter B on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Draft line B straight out from dot 4.
Measure 1 inch from dot 4 °n line B and place dot 5.
Measure out line B fr°m dot 5 the combined width of center-back side body
and under arm form and place dot 6,
Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and diafting through dot 5, ex-
tending 3/£ inch below.
MEASURE.
Bust 36
Waist . . . 24
Front 14
Back 16
Under Arm 8
Neck 11
Arm's Kye 16
Ivieasure 6 Y2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9.
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H.
Measure y± of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot
12.
Measure 3.^ inch less than the width of under arm form straight out from dot
12 and place dot 13-
Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the
length of under arm and place dot 14-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\.
Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6-
Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist.
TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAIST— BACK.
Draft lines A and B -/\ inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B and place dot 2-
Dot 2
1
1^
\yi is/a
^
Neck Size
7 8
9
10
1 1
12
•3
«4
15
16
17
18
Dot 3
15/8
134I I ^
2
2}4
*X
2^8
**A
*#
ZY\
zys
2
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3-
Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back on line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure I inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5>
Measure the combined width of center back and side-body on line D from dot
5 and place dot (J-
Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex-
tending yl inch below.
Measure 6 J 3' inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 9-
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 1/l inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\.
12-
Measere yi of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot
Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12-
Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6-
Finish 3 inches below the waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist.
UNDER ARM FORM.
Measure 3 inches on line D fr°m dot 6 and place dot 2-
Measure the width of under arm out from dot 2 and place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots B and 12 in the back, then measure that
distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Measure 1 ^ inches straight out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5-
Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and maausure up the
length of under arm and place dot 7-
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2-
Place letter M on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7-
Finish 3 inches below waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist.
Use the regular shirt waist front, drafting the darts the same as for a plain
waist. See dotted lines.
CAUTION.
This system is copyrighted. Any one using the Tables, Curves, or Instruc-
tions in any other manner than with our Tailor System of Cutting will be prose-
cuted to the fullest extent of the law.
SHIRT WAIST— BACK.
i. Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth.
2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on l'ne A
from line B and place dot 2' *
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
5/8
H
H
H
IO
3/
II
1%
3*
I 2
2
'3
2>^
I
I
16
*/
i7
*K
Neck Size
7
1^5
8
9
14
2^i
18
Dot 3
*#
3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on l>ne B
from line A and place dot 3-
4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C t0 dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A fr°m dot 2 arid place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure one inch from dot 4 and place dot 5-
5-
6.
7-
8.
Measure I y^ inches more than the combined width of Center Back
and side body from dot 5 and place dot 0.
9. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5-
10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and lA inch in and
place dot 7-
1 1 . Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 7-
12. Measure 6 )4 inches on line B fro™ dot 3 and place dot 9-
13. Measure 3 1i inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
14. Place letter A °n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line
H *£ inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot \\.
15. Measure 2 inches more than J^ of arm's eye measure straight down
from dot H and place dot 12-
16. Measure J^ of the width of the under arm straight out from dot 12
and place dot 13-
17. Place the 0 point of the curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot J J.
18. Place letter (J on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 6.
19. Measure one inch straight out from dot 6 and 5 inches straight down
and place dot 14
20. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line L to dot 14-
SHIRT WAIST— FRONT.
1 . Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth.
2. Draft line B / inch from the end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A
from line B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE
Dot 2
7
2
2
8
2r8
2
9
^A
2/2
2 3/
12
3
13
3/
14
1%
15
3/
16
4
17
*H
Neck Size
10
2 i ;-;
I I
18
Dot 3
2*4
*tt
234
zj4
3
3,! 8
3/
3%
4. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 °n line B
from line A and place dot 3-
5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
6. Measure iL, inch less than \? the arm's eye measure down line A
from line B and place dot 5-
7. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5-
8. Measure the distance ofbust number on line Dh"om dot 5 and place dot 6.
9. Measure 3^ of the width of under arm form out from dot Q and place dot X
10. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7-
1 1 . Measure 1 y£ inches less than the width of the under arm form
straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8-
12. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in the back then place
the corner of square on dot '8 the edge on dot X and measure that distance up
from dot 8 and place dot 9-
13. Place letter R on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 8-
14. Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 8 and 5 inches straight down
and place dot 10.
15. Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line P to dot 10-
1 6. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot
11 on line A-
17. Place letter G on dot H and draft line F to dot 8-
18. Measure 6 'i inches from dot 3 and place dot 20 on line B-
19. Measure 2 '2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
20. Place letter A °n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
Q y2 inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22-
2 1 . Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- *
22. Measure 1 y2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23-
23. Measure J^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24.
24. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6.
25. Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22.
26. Place letter D on dot 9 and draft in to dot 6.
TWO UNDER ARM SHAPES.
For all waist measures up to 32 make the center of back
one inch. For all waist measures over 32, make the cen-
ter of back 1 % inches.
For example take 42 bust and 30 waist.
The table gives for the center of back, 1 % inches
For the side body, 3 inches.
For under arm shape, $}4 inches.
Make the following changes :
Take from the back l/> inch.
" " " side body '_• "
" " " front 1 "
Total, 2
Add the width of under
arm shape, 3^
Making, $}4 "
This gives two under arm shapes, 2^ inches each.
First under arm shape :
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the follow-
ing changes :
Place dot 5 1% inches from dot 4.
Place letter Q on dot 5 in drafting line A.
Place dot 7 straight up from 3 — '2 inch more than tr.
length of the under arm measure, and place dot 8 in frorr.
dot 2 only one inch.
Second under arm shape :
Draft the same, placing dot 4 straight up from dot 2 — .' i
inch more than the under arm measure. Place dot 5 one
inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3
the actual length of arm measure. Place dot 8 but one
inch in from dot 2.
When the style of goods will permit the two under arm
forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material
with good effect.
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.
Bust 42
Waist 30
Front 15
Back 17
Under Arm 8
Neck ij
Arm's Eye 17
FOR VERY LARGE LADIES.
BACK.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one
inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H.
FIRST SIDE BODY.
Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 — J /^ inches from
dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B-
SECOND SIDE BODY.
Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6
Place dot dot 5 — % inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from
dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on
dot 5 to draft line B-
FIRST UNDER ARM FORM.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 — lA inch more than
the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch
from dot 2-
SECOND UNDER ARM FORM.
Draft the same, placing dot 4 — lA inch more than the under arm
measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm
measure up from dot 3-
See measure for practice.
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.
Bust 50 Under Arm 8
Waist 40 Neck 15
Front 16 Arm's Eye 19
Back 17
Take from the front, ... 1 inch.
" " back, 1
Add width of side body,. 4 "
" " " under arm shape 4^ "
Total 10^
This will give the width of the side body, each 2%.
Width of under arm shape, each 2^.
PRINCESS— FRONT.
i. Draft line A ' H inches from the edge of cloth.
2. Draft line B l/i inch ^rom the en^ of" cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve)
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr°m line B and place dot 2.
4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under
dot 3 on line B and place dot 3-
5. Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X-
6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3-
7. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr°m 'ine B and
place dot 4-
8. Measure '4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place
dot 5-
9. Draft from dot X to dot 5-
10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5-
11. Measure out line D from dot 5 )i inch less than the table gives for
Bust number and place dot (J.
12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g
and place dot 7-
1 3 . Measure ]£ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and
place dot 0-
14. Place letter A on dot 0 and draft line E to dot 6-
15. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot
8 on line A-
1 6. Place letter A (curve up) on dot 0 and draft line F to dot 8-
17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 and place dot 9-
18. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft
line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4-
19. Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on
line F from dot 8 and place dot 10-
20. Measure ]4 the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot H.
21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12-
22. Measure }{, of the width of the second dot from dot 12 and place
dot 13.
23. Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to line 6 and
place dot 14.
24. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line G and
place dot 15.
25. Place the y2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H.
26. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner.
27. Draft lines L & M and N & 0 to meet 6 inches straight down
from the center of the dart.
28. Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20-
29. Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
30. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
0 V inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22-
3'-
32-
33-
34-
35-
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D-
Measure 1 y? inches up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22-
Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back.
For Low Cut Corset line G should be lowered one inch.
dotted line.
See
MEASURE.
Bust
36
Waist .
24
Front
>5
Back .
16
Under Arm
8
Neck
12
Arm's Eye
16
UNDERARM.
1 . Extend line F 6 inches straight out from dot 7-
2. Measure 1 '4 inches from dot 7 and place dot 2-
3. Measure ^ inch more than the table gives for the width of under
arm from dot 2 and place dot 3-
4. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and
then measure that distance straight up from dot 3 and place dot 4-
5. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 4 and place dot 5-
6. Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight in from dot 4
and place dot 6-
7 . Place the corner of square on dot 2 the edge on dot 6 and measure
up from dot 2 the length of the underarm measure and place dot 7-
8. Measure }£ of the width of both darts out from dot 2 and place
dot 8-
9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 3-
MEASURE
Bust
Waist .
Front
36
24
'5
Back .
16
Und^r Arm
8
Neck .
12
Arm's Eye
16
10: Place letter R on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 8-
I 1. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line C t0 dot 5-
1 z. Draft lines P and E t0 meet 5 inches straight down from dot 2
Use letter A-
13. Measure 2l/2 inches from dot 3 and place dot 9-
14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 ar|d place dot 10-
1 5. Place the y? mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 10.
16. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 10 and extend
line F the length of the skirt.
PRINCESS— BACK.
1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth.
2. Draft line B Vz inch from end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in the back neck table (on the curve)
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A from line Band place dot 2-
4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on
line B from line A and place dot 3-
5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
6. Measure the length of back measure down line A from dot 2 and
place dot 4-
7. Draft line B IO inches straight out from dot 4-
8. Measure 1^ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5-
9. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of center back
from dot 5 and place dot 6»
10. Draft line E fr°m dot 2 to dot 5-
; 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7-
1 2. Place the '2 mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F to dot 7-
13. Place the corner of square (or skirt rule) on dot 5 the edge on dot 7
and extend line F the length of skirt.
14. If fullness is desired in the back of skirt then measure in from dot 5
about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F- See dotted line.
1 5. Measure 6y2 inches from dot 3 °n line B and place dot 9-
16. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
17. Place letter A °n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line
H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 .
18. Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight
down from dot \\ and 3/£ inch straight in and place dot 12-
19. Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12-
20. Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6.
SIDE FORM.
1 . Place the long arm of square on line A >n the back the short arm on
dot 12 and draft line N straight out 4 inches.
2. Measure 2 inches from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N-
Measure 2 inches from dot 6 and place dot 3 on line B-
Place letter Jj on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3-
5. Measure y£ inch more than the table gives for the width of side-
body and place dot 4 on line B-
6. Measure \% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 and place dot X-
7. Measure 3^ inch from dot 2 and place dot 5 on line N-
Place letter fl on dot X and draft line B to dot 5-
9. Measure 1 r^ inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 5.
10. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J.
I 1. Draft lines E and J to meet 7 inches straight down from the center
1 2
'3
'4
'5
of line B between dots 6 and 3-
Measure lA inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place the yi mark on dot X and draft from line E to dot 8-
Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 8 and extend
line E the length of the skirt.
MEASURE.
Bust
Waist
Front
Back
Under
Neck
Arm's
Eye
36
24
15
16
8
12
16
PRINCESS— FRONT.
1. Draft line A ' V\ inches from the edge of the cloth.
2. Draft line B Yt. inch from the end of the cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve)
according to size of neck, on line A fr°m line B and place dot 2-
4. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve)
under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3-
5. Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X'
6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3-
7. Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr°m line B and place
X
the arms eye measure down line A fr°m ''ne B and
dot 4-
8. Measure
place dot 5-
9. Draft from dot X to dot 5-
10. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out
beginning 6 inches from dot 5-
1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for
bust number and place dot (J.
12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7-
13. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot
8 on line A-
1 4. Place letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 8-
15. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 9-
16. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line
G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4-
1 7. Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 8 and place dot 10-
18. Measure Jjj the distance of the first dart from dot 10 and place
dot 11.
i9-
20.
dot 13.
21.
Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12-
Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place
7-
ine G and
[ inch out
Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to
inch out and place dot 14-
22. Measure straight up from the center of the 2nd dart and
and place dot 15-
23. Place the V2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14-
24. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner.
25. Draft lines L & M and N & 0 to meet 6 inches straight down from
the center of the darts.
26. Measure 14 of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot 0
27. Plaee letter A on dot 0 and draft line E to dot 6-
28. Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18-
29. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
30. Place letter A on dot 0 and draft line P to dot 19-
31. Place the corner of square on dot 7 the edge on dot 19 and con-
tinue line P the length of skirt.
32. Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 20-
33. Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
34. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22-
35. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D-
36. Measure 1 V2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23
37. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
38. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6
39. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Stretch the
front shoulder to meet the back. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one
inch below line G- Set dotted linei.
PRINCESS— BACK.
1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth.
2. Draft line B li inch fr°m the end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under
dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr°m Hne B and place dot 2-
4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on
line B from line A and place dot 3-
5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 4-
Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back
from dot 5 and place dot 6-
10. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5-
6.
7-
8.
9-
1 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7-
12. Place the % mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F
to dot 7-
13. Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule) on dot 5 the
edge on dot ^ and extend line F the length of skirt.
14. If fullness is desired in the skirt then measure in from dot
5 about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F. (See dotted
lines.)
1 5. Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9-
1 6. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
17. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and
draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure
and place dot 1 \.
7 6
down
19.
20.
dot 6-
21.
ches u
22.
23-
24-
line G
25-
3.
back—
dot 2-
4-
5-
Measure the distance given in the table — to locate dot 12 — straight
from dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12-
Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12-
Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from
Place the 10 inch mark on dot 6 and draft to meet line K 6 in-
P-
Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14.
Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and draft
the length of skirt.
Hold the end of tape line on dot 5 and draft line H.
SIDE BODY.
Use the edge of cloth for line G-
Draft line H Yz inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 to line D — in the
-and then measure that distance down line G from line H and place
Draft line D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2-
Measure H inches out line D from dot 2 and place dot 3-
Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side
body from dot 3 and place dot 4-
7. Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 and place dot 5-
8. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then
measure that distance from dot 3 to line B and place dot 6-
9. Place letter V on dot 6 the edge of curve on line D one inch out
from dot 3 and draft line A to letter J on the curve.
10. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A-
1 1 . Measure one inch out from 6 and place dot 7-
I 2. Draft line B from dot 5 to dot 7-
13. Measure 1 )/2 inches down line B fr°m dot 7 and place dot 8-
1 4. Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8-
1 5. Measure y2 inch out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 9-
16. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
17. Place the ]/2 mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 10-
18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend
line E the length of skirt.
19. Measure 1 y2 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 11.
20. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12-
21. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft
line F the length of skirt.
22. Hold the end of tape line on dot \\ and draft line J.
UNDER ARM FORM— BACK.
1 . Use the edge of cloth for line G-
2. Draft line H V? inch from the end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and
then measure that distance down line G fr°m line H and place dot X.
4. Draft line D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot X-
5. Measure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line D-
6. Measure on line D % inch more than the table gives for the width
of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3-
7. Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H-
8. Measure 3<£ inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
9. Measure y inch more than the table gives for the width of under
arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6.
10. Draft line A from dot 2 to dot 5.
1 I. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7-
1 2. Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 7-
13. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7-
Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9-
Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the
edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt.
18. Measure 1 y2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10-
19. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\.
20. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H.
21. Place the corner of square on dot 10 the edge on dot \\ and con-
tinue line F the length of skirt.
2 2. Hold the end of tape line on line D half way between dots 2 and
3 and draft line J.
H-
'5-
16.
i7-
MEASURE.
Bust .
36
Waist .
24
Front .
'5
Back .
16
Under Arm
8
Neck
12
Arm's Eye
16
For low cut corset the point of the darts should meet one
inch below line G. See diagram.
PRINCESS— FRONT.
1. Draft line A ' Y\ inches from the edge of cloth.
2. Draft line B /^ mcn from the end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve)
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr°m lme B and place dot 2.
4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under
dot 3 on l'ne B and place dot 3-
5. Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X-
6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3-
7. Measure J4 of the arms eye measure down line A fr°m line B and
place dot 4-
8. Measure 3^ of the arm's eye measure on line A from line Band place dot 5
9. Draft from dot X to dot 4-
10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 4-
1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for
Bust number and place dot 6.
12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g
and place dot 7-
13. Measure ^ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and,
place dot 0-
14. Place letter A on dot 0 and draft line E to dot 6-
1 5. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot
8 on line A-
16. Place letter A (curve up) on dot 0 and draft line p to dot 8-
17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 ar>d place dot 9-
18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot g and draft
line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 5-
19. Measure J<j inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on
line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot 10-
20. Measure y'2 the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot H.
21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12-
22. Measure l/2 ofthe width ofthe second dot from dot 12 and place dot 13-
23. Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to line 6 and
place dot 14.
24. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line G and
place dot 15-
2;. Place the y'2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H.
26. Draft lines I, J and K m 'ike manner.
27. Draft lines L.M&N \yi inches straight down from dots 10, I l,& 12.
28. Measure 6 inches straight down from the center ofthe second dart
and place dot 16.
29. Draft line 0 from dot 13 to dot 16.
30. Continue line 0 straight down from dot 16.
31. Place the corner of square on the center ofthe 2nd dart and measure
straight in to line A and plaee dot 17.
32. Measure one inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18-
l^. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
34. Place letter A on dot 0 and draft line P to dot 19-
35. Place the corner on square on dot 7 the edge on dot 19 and continue
line P the length of skirt.
36. Measure 6^ inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 20-
37. Measure 1 3/£ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
38. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
Q U inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22-
39. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D-
Measure 1 yi inches up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and P'ace dot 24-
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22-
FRONT PANEL.
Use the fold of Cloth for line A.
Draft line B % inch from the end of cloth.
3. Measure the distance between dots 8 and 17 down line A from line B
and place dot 2.
4. Measure the space between dots 8 & 10 and I I & 12 and add y^
inch and then measure that distance on line B from line A and place dot 3.
5. Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3.
6. Measure y{ inch more than the combined distance between dots 8
& 10 and II & 12 on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4.
7. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5.
8. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6.
9. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft line
D yi inch more than the length of skirt.
10. Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 6.
1 1 . Measure the length of skirt down from dot 2 on line A and draft line
F to line D.
40.
41.
42.
43-
1.
2.
Bust
Waist .
Front
Back .
Under arm
Neck
Arm's Eye
MEASURE.
3°
?4
>5
16
8
12
16
VIENNA WAIST.
Draft line A I '2 'ncn fr°m the edge of goods.
Draft line B > 2 inches from the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc
2 from line B on line A and place dot 2-
Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from
line A and place dot 3-
Measure down line A *rom line B 3/i of arm's eye measure and place dot 4
Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5-
Place the corner ot square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 6
inches from dot 5-
Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for bust num-
ber and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8-
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line P to dot 7-
Measure y£ inch out from dot 2 and place new dot 2-
Measure « inch in from dot 5 and place new dot 5-
Measure 'j the distance of the first dart out from dot 8 and place new dot 8-
Place letter H on new dot 2 and draft to new dot 5-
Place letter (J on new dot 5 and draft to dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to new dot 8-
Place letter H on new dot 8 and draft to meet line A 5 inches below dot 8-
Measure in from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l/2 the width of the
first dart and place new dot 7-
Measure I 1j inches straight down from 6 and place dot 9-
Draft line E fr°m dot 6 to 9-
Place letter A on new dot 7 and draft to dot 9-
Measure 6l/2 inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 20-
Measure 1 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the pro-
portionate length of shoulder and place dot 22-
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D.
Measure 1 '2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to meet line B 1 inch in from dot
s
Place letter K °n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q.
Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25-
' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26-
Measure \£ inch out line B fr°m line A and place dot 27-
Place the corner of square on dot 27, tne edge on dot 26 ar|d draft line f? out
about 20 inches.
Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T.
Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28-
Place the corner of square on dot 28, the edge on line T and draft line \J out
10 inches.
Measure out line U from dot 28 ' inch less than the combined width of cen-
ter-back side body and under arm forms and place dot 29-
Place the corner of square on dot 22, the long arm parallel with line X and
place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure.
Arm's eye measure
14 15
16 17
18 19
20 21
Dot 30
2
3H
1%
3H
Place the corner of square on dot 30 the long arm parallel with line T and
measure out from dot 30 — % mch more than the width of under arm form and
place dot 32-
Place the corner of square on dot 29, the edge on dot 32 and measure up the
distance between dots 6 and new 7 (in the front drafting) and place dot 33-
Place letter A on dot 29 and draft line V to dot 33-
Place the X point of curve on dot Jj an J draft line }/f to the end of line Q.
Bone the lining before sdtching to the outside material.
Darts can be made if desired, but they must be made yi inch less on each
dart than the table calls for and omit making new dot 7-
SEAMLESS WAIST.
Fifty ($50 00) dollars Rewa.d will be
paid for the conviction of any one infring-
ing on any of onr copyrights.
MEASURE
Bust
34
Waist .
22
Front
14
Back .
16
Under Arm
8
Neck
ii
Arm's Eye
•5
Use the fold of goods for the center of back.
Draft line B io inches from the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 2 (on the curve)
from line B on line A a°d place dot 2-
Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 'on the curve)
on line B h"om line A and place dot 3-
Draft line C fi'om dot 2 t0 dot 3-
Measure 7 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 4-
Measure the length of back down the fold of goods from line B and place dot
5
Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 5-
Measure 4 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 6-
Measure 6 ) ■', inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 7-
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place letter A on dot 3» the edge °' curve on dot 8 and draft line E 'he
proportionate length ot shoulder.
Measure ; inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 10-
Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot 10 and measure from dot
6 — y2 inch more than j£ of bust measure and place dot H.
Draft line F from dot 10 to dot H-
Place the corner of square on dot H, the short arm on line F and draft line
G up i/J of the arm's eye measure.
Place the edge of square on line (J and draft line H in from the end of line
6.
Measure down line G fr°m ''ne H the distance given in table for front neck
under dot 2 and place dot 12-
Measure 3/g inch in from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Measure in on line H from line G % inch more than the neck table gives
under dot 3 and place dot 14-
Place letter B on dot 13 and draft line I to dot 14-
Place the corner of square on dot 12 and extend line G down one inch more
than the length of front and place dot 15-
Place the corner of square on the end of line D, the edge on dot 15 and
measure 4 inches less than l/2 of waist measure and place dot 16-
Place letter F on the end of line D and draft line J to dot 16.
Place letter R on dot H and draft line K to dot 16
Draft line L fr°m dot H to dot 13.
Measure b}A inches in from dot 14 on line H and place dot 17-
Measure 1 3+ inches down from dot 17 and place dot 18-
Place letter A °n dot 14, the edge of curve on dot 18 and draft line M the
proportionate length ot shoulder.
Draft line N parallel with line G from the end of line M to line F.
Measure up line N • % inches from line F and place dot 20-
Measure 1 inch out from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place dot 22 on line F lA the distance between dot 10 and line N.
Place letter B on dot 21 and draft line 0 to dot 22-
Place letter T on dot 21 and extend line 0 to the end of line ffl.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 22 and draft line P to the end ot line E.
Place the edge of square even with line E and measure in from dot 3 the
distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 and place dot 23-
Place the corner of square on dot 23, the edge on line E and draft line Q 1 o
inches from dot 23-
Measure on line Q from dot 23 the distance in the front neck table under dot
2 and place dot 24-
Place letter B on dot 24 and draft line R to dot 3-
Place letter G on the end of line E and draft line U to the end of line Q.
0)
"B
3
/~c~~
H/
IL^
JO
*1
/S
J/2
mS
t'J
x\
S T>
r
MEASURE.
8 Years.
Bust 28
Waist 24
Front 9y2
Back 11^
Under Arm 51/
Shoulder 4
Neck 10
Arm's Eye 1 3
In measuring for children, tie a string around the waist and
push down to the point of hips and use as a guide for waist-line
When drafting for children, place line A 1 1-2 inches from
the edge of goods and omit dot 5. Also draft the shoulder 1-2
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
BERLIN WAIST.
Draft lines A and B Y\ mcn from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from
line B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
*A
H
H
X
H
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
12
13
H
15
16
17
18
Dot 3
u
n
1
iyi
'#
in
**/*
15/8
1%
I#
2
2'8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out nne B from
lir: A and place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4.
Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure the distance given in table for centre-back, side-body and under
arm from dot 5 and place dot 8.
Draft line E. beginning 4 inches below line B and draft to dot 5-
Measure 6 vX inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9.
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the
proportionate length of Moulder and place dot \\.
Measure M the arm's eye straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12.
Measure 3^ inch less than the width of under arm straight out from dot 12
and place dot 13-
Place the corner of square on dot 8, the edge on dot 13 and measure up
from dot 8 the length of under arm and place dot 14.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot H.
Place letter M on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 8-
When drafting for children, draft line A ' Y? inches from the edge of goods
and omit dot 5- Draft the shoulder y^ inch less than the proportionate
shoulder measure.
CHILDREN'S FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A.
Draft line B yi. mcn from the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from
line B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
nti
2
**■
2*4
2l{
3
3^
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
11
1 2
13
Dot 3
1*4
i|4
2
2}i
«#
234
^
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out line B from
line A and place dot 3-
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 3/ of arm's eye down line A from line B and place dot 4-
Measure y2 of arm's eye down line A fr°m line B and place dot 5-
Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5-
Measure the distance of bust number out line D from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Measure the length of front down line A from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Draft line F from dot ^ to dot 8.
Measure outline F from dot 8. the distance given in the table for front waist
number and place dot X-
Draft line E from dot 6 to dot X-
Measure ij4 inches on line E from dot 6 and place dot 9-
Place the corner of square on dot 4> the edge on dot 9 and draft line 6 out
3 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4-
Measure zxA inches on line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot 10-
Measure the width of dart (as given in the table) from dot 10 and place
dot |1.
Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on line Q.
Draft lines H and I the same as other darts.
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20-
Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano" place dot 21.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q j4
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D-
Measure i inch up line R from line D and place dot 23.
Measure i inch straight in from dot 23 aI>d place dot 24.
Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6.
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q.
SAILOR BLOUSE
For Ladies or Children.
FRONT.
Draft a plain front and add 4 inches to the waist line from dot ^ and draft
line E to dot 6.
Omit darts and cut 6 inches below the waist line.
BACK.
Draft the Berlin back and add 2 ]4 inches to the waist line from dot 8 and
draft line H to dot 14- Cut 6 inches below the waist line.
FOR VERY FULL FORM.
This diagram shows the changes necessary for a very full bust and narrow
back.
The dotted lines show the ordinary drafting, the heavy lines showing the
changes
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.
Bust
Waist
Front
Back - . -
Under Arm
Height of Shoulder
Width of Back
Neck
Arm's Eye
42
z5
17
17
9
6
'5
'9
For a regular form the width of the back should be j/(, of the bust measure.
This width of back is 6 inches, indicating that the back is for a 36 bust meas-
ure. Take a 36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back.
Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42
(the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. Take 2/i of 6, which
would be 4, and add to the regular measure — 42— -which would make 46.
Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front.
Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 °n line A and 1 inch straight out and
place new dot 2. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^£
inches above dot 3- [See diagram.] Place dot X Y inch straight in from
dot 4. Plate letter H on dot X and draft to new dot 2. Place the 5 inch
mark on dot X and continue the curved line x/2 inch out from dot 8, meeting
line A about 5 inches down. [See diagram.] Take alj^ inch dart in the
lining at dot 5. [See diagram.] In locating the darts measure from the
curved line in, locating dot 10. Draft the darts so that the point meets one
inch above line G. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the
shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder
measure and baste a ^ inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the
bastings after the shoulder is stitched. [See diagram.] Also baste a I
inch dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching.
B.
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m\
oo
SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow
Elbow to Wrist
Around Arm below Shoulder .
Around Arm below Elbow . . .
Around Hand
i +
10
I I
10
8
inch more than \i the measure around the arm below the
FRENCH SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B V\ inch from the end and edge of goods.
Measure l/2 the hand measure out line B from line A and place dot 2.
Measure I y, inches on line A from line B and place dot 3-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C °ut
2 T^ inches less than the hand measure.
Measure y, inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro'"1
line B and place dot 4.
Measure I J^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure 2 inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow-
straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Place letter Q, on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3.
Measure up line A 4's inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow
from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7.
Measure 5 inches from dot 7 on line A and place dot 8-
Draft line F straight out from dot 8-
Measure out line F fr°m dot 8 • inch less than > _, the measure around the
arm below the shoulder and place dot 9-
Measure
shoulder on line F from dot 9 and place dot 10
Measure I inch less than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on
line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot \\.
Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot 12.
Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13.
Place the 0 point of curve on line F 1 inch in from dot 9 and draft line Q to
dot 7-
Place the X point of curve on line F • inch out from dot 9 and draft line H
to dot 12.
Place letter F on dot 12 and draft line \ to dot 13.
Draft line J from dot 13 extending 2!2 inches below dot 6.
Measure l2 inch straight in from the end of line J and place dot 14.
Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line K t0 dot 14
Place letter R on dot 14 and continue line K t0 [he end of line (J-
Allow seams on lines D, E, J and R\ Cut on lines C, 6, H and I.
UNDER PART.
Draft lines A and B lA inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2-
Measure 1 y inches on line A fr°m Hne B and place dot 3-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C ' 2
inch more than ^i of hand measure from dot 3-
Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from
line B and place dot 4-
Measure I 1-2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure y2 inch more than y the measure around the arm below the elbow
straight from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3-
Measure \l{, inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \
on line A and place dot 7-
Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7-
Measure I \2 inches on line A h"om dot 7 and place dot 8-
Measure y inch more than y the measure around the arm below the shoulder
out from dot 8 and place dot 9-
"lace letter K °n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9-
Draft line G fr°m dot 9 to dot 6-
Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line H to the end ot line (J-
Allow seams on lines D, E, G and H Cut on lines C and f.
This sleeve is gathered at the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. Sti
Jotted lines). Lay the sleeve smooth on the table, told the top over aoout 3
inches from the elbow up and from the hand up to the elbow about 2 inches.
Now bring the fullness together at the elbow, taking up about 2 inches in space
and run in a gathering thread. See that dots 5 come together and baste up and
down from dot 5-
THE PRATT SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B H inch from the edge and end of cloth'
Measure out line B from line A ',■ the hand measure and place dot 2.
inches and place dot 3.
inch more than the measure from elbow to
SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow l*
Elbo(V to Wrist 10
Around Arm below Shoulder ' '
Around Arm below Elbow ' °
Around Hand -
Measure up line A from line B ' }
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3-
Measure up line A from line B '.'
u rist and place dot 4-
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure straight out from dot 5 1 % inches more than >3 ot the measure
around the arm below the elbow and place dot 6-
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3.
Measure up line A from dot 4— 41-' inches less than the measure ""°m sh°U'der
to elbow and place dot 7.
Place etter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7.
Measure up line A from dot 7—5 % inches and Place dot 8-
Draft line F straight out from dot 8. ,
Measure out line F from dot 8 > inch less than >, the measure around arm
below shoulder and place dot 9. , ,
Measure out line F from dot 8 I % inches less than the measure around arm
below shoulder and place dot 10. .«.,-., in
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\
Place the 0 point of the curve on line F * inches in from dot 9 and draft line
G Sate the X point of the curve on line F * inches out from dot 9 and draft
lineH to dot 11. . \ ■
Place letter H on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b.
Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 2
Allow for seams on lines D, E, J and K Cut on lines C, G and fl
UNDER PART OF SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of cloth
Measure out line B from line A V2 the hand measure and place dot 2.
Measure up line A from line B • % inches and place dot 3.
Place the corner of the square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2 and draft line C
1 , inch less than J . of hand measure from dot 3. .
"Measure up line A from line B % inch more than the measure from elbow to
wrist and place dot 4. , , , . , „ _
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch less than % the measure around arm
below elbow and place dot 6.
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3
Measure up line A from dot 4-4 % inches less than the measure from shoulder
to elbow and place dot 7.
Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7.
Measure up line A from dot 7 ^2 inches and place dot 8-
Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch less than V, the measure around urn
below shoulder and place dot 9.
Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot g.
Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line G '° d°t 9.
Place letter A on line Q , inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of
"aL for seams on lines D) E, G and H- Cut on lines C and F.
For Cloak or Coat.-Add ■ inch to the first and second measure, .round arm
una y2 inch to the hand measure.
is ca
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09
SLEEVE NO, 5-
Draft .ines A and B 3/i 'ncn fr°m tne edge aI)d e"d °^ c'otri-
Measure out line B from line A /^ the hand measure and place dot 2-
Measure up line A fr°m line B • }4 inches and place dot 3-
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3-
Measure up line A from line B j4 mch more than the measure from elbow
to wrist and place dot 4-
Measure l y2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure 4 inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow
from dot 5 and place dot (J.
Place letter JH on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3-
Measure 4 y2 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line
A from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7-
Measure 5 y2 inches up line A from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Draft line F straight out from dot 8-
Measure out line F from dot 8 J^ the measure around arm below shoulder
and place dot 9-
Measure 1 y2 inches less than the measure around the arm below the shoulder
on line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot 10-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place letter 0 on line F 1 inch in from dot 9 and draft line G to dot 7-
Place letter X °n line F ' inch out from dot 9 and draft line H to dot \\.
Place letter Yf on dot 8 and draft line J to dot H.
Place the y> mark on dot 6 and draft line R t0 dot 2-
Allow for seams on lines D> E> J and R. Cut on lines (J. 6 and H-
UNDER PART OF SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure out line B from line A yd the hand measure and place dot 2-
Measure up line A from line B ' ^2 inches and place dot 3-
Place the corner of the square on dot 3> the edge on dot 2 and draft line C
y% inch less than y2 of hand measure from dot 3-
Measure up line A from line B y inch more than the measure from elbow to
wrist and place dot 4-
Measure I y2 inches siraight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure y2 the measure around the arm below the elbow straight out from
dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place letter JJ on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3-
Measure 4 y inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow up line A
from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7-
Measure 2 y2 inches up line A fr°m dot 7 and place dot 8-
Measure y2 inch less than y2 the measure around the arm below the shoulder
out from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9-
Place letter yjf on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 9-
Place letter A °n line G • inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of
line C-
Allow for seams on lines D. E> G and H- Cut on lines C and F-
For Cloak or Coat. — Add 1 inch to the first and second measures around arm
and y2 inch to the hand measure.
SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow- 14
Elbcv to Wrist 10
Around Arm below Shoulder 11
Around Arm below Elbow 10
Around Hand 8
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS.
Shoulder to Elbow • - 9%
Elbow to Wrist 7 J4
Around Arm below Shoulder 8 y2
Around Arm below Elbow - - 8
Around Hand 7
CHILD'S SLEEVE— TOP.
Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of cloth
Measure % inch more than % the hand measure on l.ne B horn line A and
PlaMedasureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 (according to length of
sleeve) on line A fr°m line B and place dot 3.
TABLE.
Length of Sleeve
Dot 3
Dot 5
Dot?
DoTl2~
13-14
,5-16
*%
■34
1'
17-n
lU
VA
*X
19-20
»#
■ #
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3.
Measure 1 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A ^
line R and place dot 4- ,. 1 u r
Measure the distance given in the table under dot 5 (according to length ot
sleeve ) straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. ■
Measure \ inches more than * the measure around the arm below the elbow
straight from dot 5 and P,ace dot 6-
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3.
Measure the distance from shoulder to elbow (Jess the distance given m the
table under dot 7) on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7.
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 5.
Measure 1 inch more than the table gives tor dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and
place dot 9.
Draft line F straight out from dot 9. cu„,,uPr
Measure . % inches more than ]/2 the measure around the arm belou shoulder
" KIT? VZL^lrt^t arm below the shoulder on line F from
^ Measure £l£i *- » *• ■**> — * 12 straight down from dot
1 1« W^of the curve on line F . inch in from dot 10 and draft line
G to dot 8- _ , <n
Place letter T on dot 10 and draft line H to dot \i.
Draft line I from dot 12 to dot 6.
Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line J to dot 2.
Allow seams on lines D, E, I and J. Cut on lines C, G and H.
UNDER PART.
Draft lines A and B V? inch from edge and end of goods.
Measure % inch more than «4 the measure around the hand on line B horn
line A and place dot 1.
TABLE. .
Length of Sleeve
Dot 2
Dot 4
Dot 6
13 14
5 16
i)<6
^ H
*%
7 18I19 zc
1*
3^
'X
Measure the distance given in the table under do, 2 (according to length of
leeve) on line A from line B and place dot 2.
SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow 14
Elbow to Wrist 10
Around Arm below Shoulder - 11
Around Arm below Elbow 10
Around Hand 8
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 1 and draft line Q y2
inch less than l/2 the hand measure.
Measure ^ inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from
line B and place dot 3.
Measure the distance given in the table under dot 4 (according to length of
sleeve) straight from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Measure y, the measure around the arm below the elbow straight out from
dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place letter JJ on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2.
Measure the distance from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in the
table under dot 6 (according to length of arm) on line A from dot 3 and place
dot 6.
Place letter JJ on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4-
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the upper part of sleeve and
then measure that distance on line A from dot 3 and place dot 7-
Measure y2 the measure around the arm below shoulder straight out from dot
7 and place dot 8.
Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 8-
Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 5-
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line H to the end of line (J-
Allow seams on lines D. E, G and H- Cut on lines C and F.
SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE.
Draft line A vi inch from edge of goods.
Draft line B straight out from line A 6 inches more than the measure
around the arm below the shoulder.
Place dot 2 in the centre of line B.
Measure straight out from dot 2 — Vi inch less than yl of hand
measure and place dot 3.
Measure straight in from dot 2 — % inch less than ^ of hand measure
and place dot 4.
Measure up line A from line B ll/i inches less than the length of
sleeve and place dot 5.
Draft line C from dot 4 to dot 5.
Draft line D straight out from dot 5 the same length as line B.
Draft line E from the end of line D to dot 3-
Measure down line C from dot 5 — 5 inches less than the measure from
shoulder to elbow, and place dot 6-
Measure straight out from dot 6 one inch and place dot 7-
Measure down line E from the end of line D 5 inches less thaD the
measure from shoulder to elbow and place dot 8.
Measure straight in from dot 8 one inch and place dot 9.
Place letter R on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 5.
Place letter U on dot 7 and extend line F to dot 4.
Reverse the curve and draft line G from the end of line D to dots
9 and 3. '
Measure in from the end of line D li of the measure around the arm
below shoulder and place dot 10.
Measure straight up from dot 10 — }{ the measure around arm below
shoulder and place dot H.
Place letter T on the end of line D and draft line H to dot 11.
Measuie out line D from dot 5— % inch more than y& the distance
between dots 5 and 10 and place dot 12.
Hold end of tape line on dot 12 and draft a curved line from dot 11
to dot 5.
CLOAK NO. i
MEASURE.
Bust. 36
Waist 24
Front 14
Back . 16
Under Arm 8
Neck 12
Arm's Eye 16
Draft line A 6}4 inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B I Vz
inches from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck
table unde- dot 2 on line A from line B and piace dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
7
8
2
9
2 3,
IO
2-8
2y2
1 1
3
1 2
3' 8
3
'3
3*r
3X
H
3-'«
3'.'
3^
33'4
16
35/a
4
'7
334
4'4
Neck Size
18
Dot 3
zYi
2^8
37/8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to
dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 1 inch less than l/x of the arm's
eye on line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure ]/2 the arm's eye on
line A from line B and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5
and draft line D straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure I
inch more than the bust number on line D from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure y.z inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and
place dot 7- Measure l/2 inch on line D from dot 6 and place dot X-
Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- P'ace
letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7- Measure ' 3 the distance of
both darts in from dot 7 and place dot 9- Measure % the distance on
line p between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10- Measure y§ the distance
of both darts in from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure 1 :■, the distance
of both darts out from dot 10 and place dot 12- Place the corner of
square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6 and draft line G out 3 inches beginning 3
inches from dot 4- Measure straight up from dot 10 and place dot 14 on
line G- Place the ]/2 mark on dot H and draft line H to dot 14-
Reverse the curve and draft line J. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 5 inches
below dot 10. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and
measure up from dot 9 the length on under arm and place new dot 6.
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X- Place letter A on new
dot 6 and draft to meet line E z % inches below line D. Measure 3
inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 inches straight
down from dot 16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft
line M to dot 17- Measure 6yi inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot
20- Measure z]/2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3| inch
less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line
R straight from dot 22 to line D. Measure 1 j4 inches up line R from
line D and place dot 23. Measure I inch straight in from dot 23 and
place dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and
draft line S to new dot 6. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S
to dot. 22- Measure ■_, inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25-
Draft from dot 25 to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2- Measure '2
inch on line F from dot 8 and place dot 27- Place letter S on line A I %
inches below dot 4 and draft line U to dot 27- Place letter S on dot 27
and extend line \J to meet line A 8 inches below dot 8- Measure 1 y2
inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 28. Measure [^ inches
straight in from dot 5 and place dot 29- Measure 2 inches straight
in from dot 8 and place dot 30- Measure 1 3/£ inches in from the junc-
tion of lines A and U and place dot 31- Place letter S on dot 28 and
draft line V to dot 29- Place letter S on dot 29 and continue line V to
dot 30- Place letter Z on dot 30 and draft to dot 31- Measure
4^ inches straight in from dot 28 and place dot 32- Draft line W from
dot 28 to dot 32- Measure 4 '4 inches straight in from dot 29 and place
dot 33- Measure 2^( inches straight in from dot 30 and place dot 34-
Measure 3 inches straight in from dot 31 and place dot 35- Draft line X
from dot 32 to dot 33. Place letter jj on dot 34 and draft to dot 33.
Place letter S on dot 34 and draft to dot 35- Draft line Y from dot 31
to dot 35-
CLOAK NO. 2.
Draft line A 3 inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B ' x/l inches
from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under
dot 2 on l'ne A fr°m line B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
*X
8
2
*x
2y2
1 1
2 34
3
3%
'4
3^
3?4
4
4^"
Neck Size
7
9
IO
12
■3
15
16
17
18
Dot 3
*x
iy%
2}i
3
3lA
3%
3^8
3>i
3^
3?4
3^8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr°m line
A and place dot 3- Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A fr°m
line B and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft
line B straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5. Measure 1 inch more
than the bust number on line B fr°m dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure Ja
inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Measure y? inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of
front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8 and
draft line p to dot 7. Measure J4 inch less than the width of the first
dart in from dot 7 on line F *nd place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9
and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge
on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm and place new dot 6.
Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line B.
Measure 2ji inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5
inches straight down dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9
and draft line M to dot 17. Measure / inch out from dot 2 and place
dot 25. Measure / inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft
lines T and U t0 meet line A 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of
curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 (use the round edge of curve).
Measure 6j4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. Measure
7.V2, inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A
on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3/£ inch less than the
proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line R straight
down from dot 22 to line B. Measure 1 1/> inches up line R from line
B and place dot 23. Measure I inch straight in from dot 23 and place
dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line B and draft
line S to new dot 6. Place lettei K °n dot 24 and extend line S to dot
22. Draft line W from dot 26 to the edge of goods.
CLOAK NO 3.
Draft line A \Yz inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B one
inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table
under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
*%
iU
2
2%
*y>
2 3/
3
3%
3^
3Va
4
4X
Neck size
7
8
9
10
1 1
12
13
M
15
16
17
18
Dot 3
*#
*tt
2 3/
2%
3
3#
3%
3Ja
3%
3^8
3*
37«
Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B
from line A and place dot 3- Measure one inch less than 3^ of the
arm's eye measure down line A from line Band place dot 4- Measure
}4 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out, be-
ginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure one inch more than the table
gives for bust number on line B from line A and place dot 6-
Up
B
3
27
2
2i
2&
7 Vn
2/ V
R
s]
/ \
23
, y24
-^D
5
\ 6
\ ^iH-
4
\ '/ V
A
XJLZ-h— ~E_
^— —Jig_
*
A 1 /
3
fl7
No. 4.
MEASURE.
Bust 36
Waist 24
Front 14
Back 16
Under Arm 8
Neck _ 1 z
Arm's Eye 16
Measure J^ inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot
6 and place dot 7. Measure yi inch out from dot 6 and place dot
X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7- Measure % inch
less than the first dart in fiom dot 7 and place dot 9. Place letter A
on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X- Place the short arm of square
on dot 9, the edge on dot 6, and measure up the length of under arm and
place new dot 6- Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet
line E 3 inches below line D- Measure one inch down line E from
line D and place dot 10- Place the corner of square on dot 4, he
edge on dot 10 and draft line G out 3 inches, beginning 3 inches from
dot 4- Measure on line G Yz the distance between dots 4 and 10,
and place dot H. Place the corner of square on dot H, the short
arm even with line G and place dot 12 on line F at edge of square.
Measure j£ of the first dart each side of dot 12 and place dots 13 and
14- Place the 2-inch mark (on the curve) on dot 13 and draft line
H to clot 11. Reverse the curve and draft line I. Place the
short arm of square on line G, the edge on dot 13 and draft line J.
Draft line K in like manner. Measure 2 inches straight out from
dot 9 and place dot 16- Measure ; inches straight down from dot
16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to
dot 17- Measure 6^ inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot
20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot
21- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft
line Q 3^ -inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place
dot 22- Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line
D- Measure \)i inch up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure one inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place
letter C on dot 24, the edge of the curve on line D and draft line S to
new dot 6- Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22
Measure y inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- Measure %
inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- Draft lines I and U to meet
line A 4 inches down from dot 2- Place the point of curve on dot
25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 2
inches in on line B from line A and place dot 27- Draft line V from
dot 26 to dot 27- Place letter P on d it 27 and draft line W to
meet the edge of goods 7 inches below line B-
CLOAK NO. 4.
Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B 1 '-j inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
<#
*3A
2
»tf
1%
234
3
1%
1%
3H
4
4 '4
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
I 2
l3
H
'5
16
'7
18
Dot 3
2%
2?8
234
2j4
3
3lA
1%
iV&
3%
3#
3%
3'A
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3.
Measure 1 inch less than 3/£ of the arm's eye measure down line A from line
B and place dot 4.
Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7
inches from dot 5.
No. 5.
Measure I inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on
line D from dot 5 and place dot 9.
Measure \2 inch less than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7.
Measure V2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X.
Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Place letter H °n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure '4 inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line
p and place dot 9.
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X.
Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the
length of under arm measure and place new dot 6.
Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D.
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X and draft line Q out
3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4.
Measure I- 10 of the waist measure on line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot 10.
Add \-2' inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from
dot 10 and place dot H.
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y2
inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14.
Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14.
Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart.
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16.
Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17.
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17.
Measure Jj£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25.
Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26.
Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2.
Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round
edge).
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20.
Measure 2 y2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21.
Place letter A °n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q -'4 inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22.
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to l'ne D.
Measure 1 V2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23.
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24.
Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to dot
6.
Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22.
Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27.
Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27.
Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line }jf to meet the edge of goods 7 inches
down.
CLOAK NO. 5.
Draft line A 3 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B ' l/2 inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A and place
dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
*%
i%
*\*x
2 14
*H
3
1%
3^
3H
4
\%
Neck Size
7
8
9 | lo
1 I
1 2
'3
H
•5
16
17
18
Dot 3
2j4
*H
2ji 2 7,8
3
3*A
3 U'
3#
VA
3H
*H
3H
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 °n line B from line
A and place dot 3.
Meaure r, inch less than -*4 of the arm's eye measure on line A fr°m line B
aivj place dot 4.
REINACH'S
LIST OF
IMPORTED JOURNALS
FOR DRESSMAKING
Price per Price per
Year 6 months
LA MODK ARTISTIQUE
With Albums -IS-00 24-00
The same without Albums 20.00 12.00
LE LUXE
WIENER CHIC
COSTUME ELEGANT, I.
COSTUME ELEGANT, II.
LE GOUT PARISIEN
CHIC PARISIEN, I.
CHIC PARISIEN, II.
24.00
14.00
12.00
7.00
I 2.00
7.00
6.00
3-5°
Single
Number
8.00
2.50
12.00
7.OO
6.00
3-5°
FOR LADIES TAILORING
MODEZEICHNER, I. 22.00 12.00
MODEZEICHNER, II. 12.00 7.00
FACON TAILLEUR 15.00 8.50
SCHNITT-MODELLE 15.00 8.50
FOR SILK WAISTS
BLOUSEN ALBUM
6.00
Single
Number
2.00
Measure ]4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from hne B and p'a(-e doi [),
Place the corner of square on dot 5 aRd draft line D straight out, beginning 7
inches from dot 5.
Measure V, inch less than the table gives for bust number on line D fr°m dot
5 and place dot 6.
Measure 1'2 inch less than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7.
Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 8.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure r4 inch less than the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7
and place dot 9.
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft letter E to dot 6.
Measure >_: inch down line E fr°m hne D and place dot 10.
r*lace the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 10 and draft line G out
3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4.
Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F fr°m dot 8 and place dot H.
Messure ■ _. inch more than the width of the second dart from dot H and
place dot 12.
Measure the distance between dot 8 a°d the center of the dart and add yi
inch and then measure that distance on line Q from dot 4 and place dot 14.
Place the K mark on dot H and draft line H to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft I from dot 12 to dot 14.
Draft lines J and K from dots 12 and 14 to meet 12 inches below the center
of the dart.
Measure 6*4 inches oh line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 20.
Measure z</« inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3^ inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22-
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D-
Measure I l/2 inches up line K from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and p'ace dot 24
Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22
Measure ^ inch out from dot 2 ar>d place dot 25-
Measure yi inch in from dot 2 ar>d place dot 26-
Place letter C on dot 25 a°d draft line C to dot 3-
Draft lines T and U fr°m dots 25 and 26 to meet 4 inches below dot 2-
Draft line F straight out from dot 7-
Measure M inch on line D from 'dot 6 and pluce dot 27-
Measure % inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 27
and place dot 28-
Place letter H on dot 27 and draft line \J to dot 28-
Measure 2 3^ inches more than the bust number on line D from dot 5 and
place dot 29-
Measure straight down from dot 29 and p'ace dot 30 on line f.
Place letter H on dot 30 a"d draft line W to dot 29-
Measure *4 inch in from dot 29 and place dot 31-
Place the corner of square on dot 30, the edge on dot 31 and measure up the
length of under arm and place dot 32-
Place the letter A on dot 32 a"d draft to meet line W 3 inches down from
dot 29
Place the point of curve on dot 32 and draft line X to dot 27-
Measure 2 inches out from 30 and place dot 33-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 33 and place dot 34-
Place letter A on dot 30 and draft line Y to dot 34-
Use the y2 mark to draft lines L and M from dots 9 and 28 to meet 4
inches down from dot 7-
Measure 2 )A inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 35-
Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 36-
Place letter J on dot 35 the edge of curve on dot 36 and draft line N tc do:
36, beginning 1 inch above letter J.
Continue line N straight down from dot 36-
Draft line 0 from dot 26 to the end of line N-
CLOAK BACK.
Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A
from line B and place dot 2-
© NECK TABLE.
MEASURE.
Bust - 36
Waist 2 2
Front 14
Back 16
Under Arm 8
Neck 12
Arm's Eye 16
Dot 2
7
8
9
3A
y&
A
X
H
N
S/8
H
Yx
Neck Size,
10
I !
1 2
2
13
2}i
14
15
16
17
18
Dot 3,
iji
^A
iji
*X
2-:8
*%
2 5/8
*ti
Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B
from line A and place dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A from line B and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure \){ inches from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5-
Measure y\ inch less than the table gives for the width of centre back
from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Draft line E from dot 2 extending one inch below dot 5-
Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7-
Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7-
Draft line G straight down from dot 7-
Measure 6'2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9-
Measure 3>_. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of carve on dot 10 and draft line H
<^-inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H.
Measure 2% inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12-
Place point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12-
Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K> extending one inch below
dot 6-
SIDE BODY.
Place the long arm of square even with line A in the back, the short
arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12-
Measure 3^ inches on line N from dot 12 and place dot 2-
Measure 31/ inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 3-
Place letter P on dot 2 and draft line A, beginning yl inch above dot
2 and extending one inch below dot 3-
Measure '4 inch less than the table gives for the width of side body
on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5-
Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place the point of curve on the end of line A and draft line C to
dot 6-
Measure ]/? inch from dot 4 on line D and place dot 7-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8-
Draft line L from the end of line A to line K in the back.
UNDERARM FORM.
Measure 3 inches on line B from dot 4 (in tie side body) and
place dot 2-
Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under
arm from dot 2 and place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body, and
then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Measure i}( inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place
dot 6-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure
up from dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7-
Place letter Q on dot 5 aid draft line A to dot 2-
place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7-
Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9-
Measure i}{ inches out from dot 3 and place dot 10-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 11.
S 2
7 2^ *~
HZ
line A
line B
SAILOR COLLAR.
Draft line A i 'ncn from the edge of goods.
Draft line B 5 inches from the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 2 on
from line B and place dot 2.
Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on
from line A and place dot 3.
Extend line A 2 inches up from line B-
Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line A and place dot 4.
Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B. the edge on dot
4 and draft line C out 6}4 inches.
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through dot 3, extending to hue G.
Place the edge of square even with line C and draft line E out +*4 inches
from the end of line (J.
Measure 3 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Draft line F 5 inches straight out from dot 5.
Place letter F on curve, 1 l/2 inches straight up from the end ot line F and
draft line G from the end of line F to the end of line E.
Place line C on the fold of goods and there will be no seam.
This collar makes a very nice square or round yoke.
MEDICI COLLAR.
Draft lines A and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure ]/2 the neck measure on line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure 4 inches on line B fr°m line A and place dot 3.
Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4.
Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure ]£, of the neck measure on' line A from line B and place dot 5.
Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6-
Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to dot 3.
Measure 1 ^ inches down from dot 2 on line A and place dot 7.
Measure 3 inches straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round
Place the X point of curve on dot 8 and continue line E to dot 4.
COAT COLLAR.
Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 inch more than }4 of neck measure on line A from line B and
place dot 2.
Measure 3 inches on line B from line A and place dot 3.
Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Draft line D from dot 2 to dot 5.
Measure 3 */i inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 6
Measure 2 % inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7-
Place letter N on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 3.
STANDING COLLAR.
Draft line A 1 inch more than y2 the neck measure.
Draft line B lH inches straight out from line A-
Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and place dot 2.
Draft line C 33A inches straight out from the end of line A-
Measure 2 inches out line C from line A and place dot 3.
Draft line D from the end of line C to the end of line B
Measure 1 inch on line D from line C and place dot 4.
Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 4.
Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line F to dot 2
Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line G to the junction ot lines A and B
These collars are drafted on the right bias of the goods.
COAT NO.
BACK.
6.
i. Draft lines A and B -'4 inch from the edges and end of cloth.
2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A
from line B and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
%
Vs
H
10
7 8
I
1
•3
1
'4
2}i
2^
16
2 5/8
1 -s
17
2 3.4
'X
Neck Size
7
8
9
II
2
I 2
18
Dot 3
15/8
««
1 Vs
2y&
*tf
2%
3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B
from line A and place dot 3.
4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4.
7. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5.
8. Measure from dot 5 the distance given in the table for the width of
center back and place dot 6.
9. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7.
Measure V? inch in from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5.
Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 8.
Measure 6/ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9.
Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 1 0 and draft line H
% inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I .
16. Measure 1 l- inches less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight
down frpm dot I I and % inch in and place dot 12.
17. Place the point ot curve on dot I I and draft line J to dot 12.
Measure one inch in from dot 6 and place dot X on line D.
Place letter G on dot 12 and draft line K to dot X.
Place letter J on line K 6 inches above dot X and draft to dot 6.
Draft line G straight down from dot 6.
5-
6.
10.
II.
12.
■3-
•4-
i5.
18.
19.
20.
21.
SIDE BODY.
1. Draft line N straight out from dot 12.
2. Measure 3 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2.
3. Measure 3 inches out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3.
4. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of side body
from dot 3 and place dot 4.
5. Measure one inch from dot 3 and place dot X.
6. Place letter V on dot 2 the edge of curve on dot X and draft line A
to letter Z on the curve.
7. Place letter Z on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A.
8. Measure one inch from dot 2 and place dot 5.
9. Measure 2 inches less than 1^ of arm's eye straight down from dot
5 and place dot 6.
10. Place letter S on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 6.
I I. Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6.
Measure I J^ inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and piace dot 9.
Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 9.
Measure *2 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 10.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II.
Place the lA mark on dot 4 and draft line F to dot II.
1 2.
>3-
14.
•5-
16.
i7-
MEASURE.
Bust 36
Waist 24
Front 75
Back 16
Under Arm 8
Neck . . i z
Arm's Eye 16
UNDER ARM.
1 . Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2.
2. Measure the width of the under arm — as given in the table — from
dot 2 and place dot 3.
3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and
then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4.
4. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
5. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and
place dot 6.
6. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7.
7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2.
8. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7.
Measure I 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place the < ■■., mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9.
9-
10.
1 1.
I z.
'3-
14.
1.
2.
Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I I.
Place the l/2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I .
FRONT.
Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth.
inch less than XA of neck measure on line A from line
3. Measure
B and place dot 2.
4. Measure \4 inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from
line A and place dot 3.
5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure 3/£ of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place
6.
dot 4.
7-
dot 5.
8.
Measure y2 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out
beginning 6 inches from dot 5.
9. Measure the distance of the Bust number on line D from dot 5 and
place dot 6.
10. Measure the length ot under arm straight down from dot 6 and )/*
inch in and place dot 7.
Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6.
Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8.
Place letter A on dot 7 — curve up — and draft line F to dot 8.
Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23-
I I.
1 2.
'3-
14.
dot 10.
15. Measure \-i inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot
10 and place dot 1 1.
1 6. Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then
measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14.
17. Place the x/2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14.
Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II.
Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I.
Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place the V2 mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19.
Place letter G on line C l/y inch out from dot 2 and draft to meet
line A 5 inches above dot 8.
24. Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2.
2 j. Place the corner of square j£ 'nc^ m *rorn dot 2 and draft to meet
line A 2 inches down.
26. Measure 6 V2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20.
27. Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21.
28. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q
yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
29. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line Q to l'ne D.
Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23.
Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24.
Place letter 0 on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6.
Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q.
The Front can be finished any style desired.
For long shoulder extend line Q x/2 inch. See dotted lines.
30.
3«-
32-
33-
CLOAK NO. 7— BACK.
Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B and place dot 2'
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
1
_? _?
5/8
IO
S/8
I I
1^
14
12
2
J/8
»3<
2 3/&
n
I
i
Neck Size
Dot 3
16
2/
'7
2^
18
2 3^
MEASURE.
Bust 36
Waist. 2+
Front 15
Back 16
Under Arm _ 8
Neck 12
Arm's Eye 16
Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 °n line B from
line A and place dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure I y^ inches from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5-
Measure the distance the table gives for the width of centre back from dot 5
and place dot 6-
Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and % inch in and place dot 7-
Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7-
Draft line G straight down from dot (J.
Measure it1/, inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot 9-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\.
Measure 2 l/2 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12-
Place point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12-
Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g.
SIDE BODY.
Place the long arm of square even with line A >n the back, the short arm on
dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12-
Measure 31^ inches on line N fr°m dot 12 and place dot 2-
Measure 3 !2 inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 3-
Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3-
Measure the distance the table gives for the width of side body on line B
from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place letter H °n dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5-
Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J.
Measure ^ inch from dot 4 on l'ne B and place dot 7-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 ar>d place dot 8-
Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8-
Measure 1 J4 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10-
Draft line F from dot 3 to dot 9-
UNDER=ARM FORM.
Measure 3 inches on line B fr°m dot 4 (in the side body) and place dot 2-
Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot
2 and place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 m the side body, and then meas-
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5'
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place dot 6-
Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7-
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2-
Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7-
Measure 1 % inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9-
Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H.
B 3
CLOAK NO. 7— FRONT.
Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B ' 1/t. inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A fr°m 'me
B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE
Dot 2
7
2>.
I*
2
2K
IO
II
2 ?4
3
3^
14
3^
15
33/^
16
4
17
4X
Neck Size
8
2 5/g
9
2 3^
12
13
18
Dot 3
2%
3
3^
35<
3^
3^
35/^
3?4
37/s
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on une B from line
A and place dot 3-
Measure YA ot the arm's eye measure down line A from line B and place
dot 4-
Measure y2 the arm's eye measure on line A fi"0"1 hne B and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7
inches from dot 5-
Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on
line D from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Place letter A on dot ^ and draft line F to dot 8-
Measure l/i tne width of both darts in from dot 7 on line F and place dot 9-
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 6-
Measure 1-10 of the waist measure online F fr°m dot 8 and place dot 10-
Measure 3^ of the width of both darts from dot 10 and place dot H.
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add *£
inch, then measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14-
Place the j4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H t0 dot 14-
Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14-
Draft lines J and K straight down from dot 10 and H.
Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17-
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to dot 17.
Measure }£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25-
Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26-
Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2-
Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 (use the round
edge).
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20-
Measure I 3/£ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22-
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 t0 line D-
Measure I */, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S t0 dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22-
Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27-
Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27-
Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line W to meet the edge of goods 7 inches
down.
B 3
MEASURE.
Bust - - 36
Waist 24
Front ... 15
Back --■ '6
Under Arm 8
Neck ._..-... 12
Arm's Eye ' °
ETON BACK.
Draft linesA and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine A fr°m line
B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
X
%
%
3/8
3/8
%
%
5/8
M
H
H
%
Neck Size
7
8
9
IO
I 1
1 2
•3
2/8
•4
«s
16
'7
18
Dot 3
13/8
llA
1 H
'-<4
1 y%
2
*V\
236
2l/2
2 5/8
2 3/j
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3'
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back down line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 4
Draft line D straight out from dot 4
Measure I ?/ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure Y\ inch less than the combined width ot centre back and side body
from dot 5 and place dot 0.
Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5-
Measure i>]/, inches on line B fr°m dot 3 and place dot $)•
Measure 3 V, inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot IO-
Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line fl Y inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H.
Measure 1/ of the arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place
dot 12-
Place the point of curve on dot 12 and draft line J to dot H.
Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g.
UNDER-ARH FORH.
Measure 2}4 inches on line B fr°m dot B and place dot 2-
Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot
2 and place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then measure
that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Measure 1 j£ inches straight out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5-
Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7-
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2-
Place letter Jj on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3> extending I inch below.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line (J to dot 7-
ETON AND BOLERO COAT.
Draft line A + inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B 1 / inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °" line A from line
B and place dot 2-
Dot 2
■^
1% | 2
*ti
■2-Y*
234
3
3H
3Y2
3Yx
4
\%
Neck Size
7
81 9
10
1 1
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Dot 3
*#
*=/■& *Y\
*%
3 \lY*
3Y4
3^«
3%
3 '"'«
33/
3 "8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3-
Measure I inch less than Yx of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and
place dot 4-
Measure "4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out beginning 7
inches from dot 5-
Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the bust number on line B from
dot 5 and place dot B-
Measure y2 inch less than under arm length straight down from dot R and
place dot 7-
Measure y, inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot X-
Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8-
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure % inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place
dot 9-
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X beginning at the point of
curve. r
Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the
length ot under arm and place new dot 6-
Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X and draft line G out 3
inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4.
Measure one tenth of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10-
Add % inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line
F h-om dot 10 and place dot H.
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U, inch •
then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14.
Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15.
Measure ^ inch toward line A from dot 15 and place dot 16.
Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16.
Draft line K parallel with line J.
Measure % inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25
Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26-
Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2-
Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round
edge ) . v
Measure by, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20
Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q Yl inch
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22-
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line R-
Measure 1 y inches on line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to new
dot 6.
Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22-
Measure 3 % inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27.
Measure 2 y2 inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28
Place letter Q on dot 27 and draft line U to dot 28, beginning I inch above
dot 27-
Draft line V from dot 26 to the end of line V-
Finish as desired below the waist line.
For Bolero Jacket follow dotted lines.
GIRL'S CLOAK
Draft line A 2 % inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line R 1 inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from hne
B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Neck Size
Dot 3
lH
H
'*■
2 3/
*A
2% \*U
^A
10
3 \ilA
ilA
)%
1%
13
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line R from line
A and place dot 3-
Place the point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3 Tuse the round
edge). t L
8 Years.
MEASURE.
Bust.. 28
Waist . . 25
Front 9^2
Back 1 1 y2
Under Arm 5 i/j"
Neck . . 10
Arm's Eye 13
Measure y2 inch more than ^ the arm s eye measure down line A from
line B and place dot 5-
Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5-
Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for bust number on line D fr°m dot
5 and place dot (J.
Measure y2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6
and place dot 7-
Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 8-
Draft line p from dot 8 to dot 7-
Measure I inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot 8 on '>ne F
and place dot •)•
Place the \2 mark on dot 9 and draft line E t0 dot 8.
Measure 1 y2 inches out from dot 9 and place dot 16.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17-
Place the V2 mark on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 17-
Measure 6 ' A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20-
Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter A on dot 3, tne edge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q ^2
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line Di
Measure I inch up line R from line D and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q.
Measure I inch in on line B fr°m line A and place dot 25-
Place the 0 point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line T
extending ^ inch above dot 25-
Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge of
goods 3 y, inches down.
BACK.
Draft lines A and B • inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measu-e the distance given in the table under dot 2 down line A fr°m ''ne B
and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
7
•ft
X
8
9
•ft
10
1%
H
%
%
Neck Size
1 1
12
2
•3
Dot 3
zy&
3 inches below line B and extending 3^ inch below
Measure the distance given in the table under dot 3 on line B^ot line A and
place dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of* back on line A from line B and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure i^ inch from dot 4 °n nne D and place dot 5-
Measure 14 inch less than \2 °f tne combined width of center-back side body
and under arm from dot 5 and place dot 6
Draft line E, beginning
dot 5.
Draft line F I V2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7-
Draft line G straight down from dot 7-
Measure 6j4 inches on line B 'rorri dot 3 and place dot 9-
Measure 3)4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A °n dot 3, edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H V-> inch
'ess than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure J^ inch less than y^ of the arm's eye measure straight down from
the end of line H and place dot 12-
Place letter R* on dot 12 and draft line J to the end of line B-
Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K extending 34 inch below dot 6-
B
JO
JO
52 .^ [2 § J*
MEASURE, 6 YRS.
Bust 26
Waist 24
Front 8^
Back 11
Under Arm 4^
Neck 10
Arm's Eye 12
CHILD'S COAT— BACK.
Draft lines A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure y2 inch less than j^ of neck measure on line B from line A and
place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place
dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4.
Measure one inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure % of waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5.
Place letter N on dot 5 and draft line F to meet line A 5 % inches below
dot 4.
Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9.
Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H %
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I.
Measure l/± of arms eye measure straight down from dot I I and place
dot 12.
Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 1 2 and place dot 1 3.
Place letter D on dot I I and draft line J to dot 13.
Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13.
Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15.
Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15.
Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F.
UNDER ARM.
Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2.
Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and
place dot 3.
Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13 in the back and then meas-
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight out from dot 4 and
place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up
from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7.
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2.
Place G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7.
Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Measure 51^ inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9.
Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II.
Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II.
Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II.
MEASURE 6 YRS.
Bust 26
Waist 24
Front . 8 i/A
Back 11
Under Arm 424
Neck 10
Arm's Eye 12
CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT.
Draft line A 3 J^ inches from the edge of goods.
Draft line B 1'2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure y£ of the neck measure down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure *2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on line B from line A and
place dot 3.
Place letter B on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
• Measure '; ot the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place
dot 4.
Measure the length ot the under arm measure down line A from dot 4 and
place dot 5.
Draft line F straight out from dot 5.
Draft line D straight out beginning 4 inches from line dot 4.
Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6.
Measure one inch more than y± of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and
place dot 7.
Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 7.
Measure 2^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Measure 5 V? inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line G to dot 9.
Hold end of tape line on dot 3 and draft line H from dot 9 to the edge of
goods.
Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10.
Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 1 0 and place dot I I .
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot I I , and draft line Q V±
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D.
Measure y± inch up line R from line D and place dot 12.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6.
Place letter K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q.
Measure 3 inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place
dot 13.
Measure 2 % inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 14.
Draft from dot 2 to dot 13.
Place letter Q on dot 13 and draft to dot 14.
Place letter R on dot 14 and draft to the junction ot line G and the edge
of goods.
UNDER ARM.
Place the long arm of square on line A (in the back) the short arm on doi
12 and draft line N straight from dot 12-
Measure 3 inches from dot 12 on line N and place dot 2-
Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3-
Place letter Q on dot 2 and draft line A extending, 3^ 'nch below dot 3-
Draft from the end of line A to the end of line K in the back.
Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of center-back, side bodv
and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Measure the width of under arm form, as given in the table, from dot 2 on
line N and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 5, and measure up from
dot 4» '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6-
Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line B to dot 4-
Place the X point of the curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6-
Measure lyi inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and -place dot 8-
Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8-
CAPES
Draft line A ' inch from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B 5 inches from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
5%
6
10
6#
6^
6</4
6>4
12
6-/8
63A
7
>4
6s/8
7*
Neck Size 2
9
6
";
Dot 3
6 3/4
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A and place dot 3-
Draft line C 7 inches straight out from dot 2-
Measure 1 }4 inches on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure I }/, inches up line A from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Measure 3/£ inch in on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6-
Place the short arm of square on dot 5, the long arm on dot 6 and place dot
7 at the point of square.
Place letter D on line C 2 inches from dot 4 and draft line E to dot 7.
Place the point of curve on dot 7 and continue line E to dot 3.
Measure i/x inch down line E from dot 7 and place dot 8
Measure i/± inch up line E from dot 7 and place dot 9.
Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B, the edge on dot
7 and measure 3 inches out from dot 1 and place dot 12-
Draft lines F and 6 from dot 12 to dots 8 and 9.
Place letter M on dot 4 and draft line H to meet line A > 1 inches below dot
2
Measure 9 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 13-
Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 13 and place dot 14.
•Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 14, and draft line J 2
inches more than the length of front and place dot 16-
Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 15.
Draft line R 7 inches straight out from dot 15.
Draft line J, 6 inches straight down from dot 16-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 7 and draft a curved line from the end of
line K to line L-
CIRCULAR CAPE
The neck measure and length are all the measures that are necessary. It the
goods are wide enough to cut without a seam then fold the goods and
measure up the fold the length that you wish the cape and place dot 2-
Place dot 3 — l/i °f tne neck measure from dot 2- Stick a pjn through
the end of the tape line and in dot 3 and draft a curved line beginning at dot
2- Without removing the pin or tape line, measure down the fold of
the goods the length that you wish the cape and draft a curved line. It
the goods are not wide enough to cut without a seam then use the selvedge
in the place of the fold, this will make a seam in the center of the back only.
Allow for seam in cutting out.
CAPUCHIN HOOD.
Draft lines A and B '2 inch from edge and end of cloth.
Measure l/± inch less than '-C of neck measure on line A from line B
and place dot 2-
Measure j£ inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from line A
and place dot 3-
Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Measure |6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5-
Place letter A on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3-
Measure 14.1-2 inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 6-
Measure 1 inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7-
Measure 7 inches on line B from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter K on dot 7, the edge of curve on dot 9 and draft line D
to the yi mark on the curve.
Measure ^ inch straight in from the end of line D and place dot 10
■ Place letter G on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up.
Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10-
RED RIDING HOOD.
Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of goods.
Measure 3^ inch less than % the neck measure on line A and from
line B and place dot 2-
Measure l/i. the neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3-
Measure io1^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5-
Measure l/% inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to d6t 2.
Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to dot 3-
Measure 5 l/> inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot T.
Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place the 8 inch mark (on the curve) on dot 8, the edge on dot 10
and continue line D to the X point of the curve.
Place letter H on the end of line D and draft to dot 4-
DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT.
FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B % inch from the end of goods out 15 inches.
Measure 1 ]/x inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2.
Measure 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom "ne A and
place dot 3-
Place letter F on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure down the fold of goods from dot 2 the length of skirt measure and
place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4 about I 5 inches.
Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 5-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place the corner of square on dot 3» the edge on dot 6» and draft line E
.own l inch more than the skirt length.
Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7-
Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc.
Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2.
Measure ) 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9-
Place the corner of square on dot 8» the edge on dot 9. and draft line G
down 14 inches and place dot 10-
Measure 1 5 l4 inches on line E fr°m dot 3» and place dot H.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H.
Measure 2 inches more than j4 of skirt length on line E, from dot H, and
place dot 12-
Hold the end of tape line 011 dot 3 and draft a curved line from the end of
line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4-
Hold the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft a
curved line from dot 12 to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4-
_jSi 1
BACK.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure 3 $4 inches on line A» rrom line B. and place dot 2-
Measure 1 inch more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2, and place
dot 3.
Draft line C» out from dot 3, about I 5 inches.
Measure $% inches less than J^ of waist measure, on line B from line A.
and place dot 4-
Measure 4 inches on line B, from line A. and place dot 5-
Measure z1/, inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6
Place letter T on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4-
Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 4. and place dot 7-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 8. and draft line F down
1 inch more than the skirt length.
Measure 1 5 % inches on line F, from dot 4, and place dot 9.
Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10-
Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10-
Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 6-
Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge on dot 9> and draft line H 2
inches more than }4 the skirt length from dot 9-
Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved
line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4- inches from dot 3.
Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line K r"rom the end
of line H to meet line J. *"
FLARE SKIRT NO. 507 FRONT.
Use the told of goods for line A.
Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods.
Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3.
Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and
place dot 4.
Draft line D 20 inches straight out from dot 4.
Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5.
Measure '; inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and
draft line E to line D.
Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7.
Measure I 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8.
Measure 1 }£ inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and
place dot 9.
Measure \£ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10.
Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot 9.
l4 inch allowed for seam.
FIRST GORE.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods.
Measure 1 W inches down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure 1 y? inches more than ^ of the waist measure on line B from
line A and place dot 3.
Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Measure ■_. inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5.
Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line
B and place dot 6.
Draft line D straight out from dot 6.
Measure 1 '_, inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5.
Measure 9 inches up line E from dot 7 and ••_, inch in and place dot 8.
Place letter S on dot 8 and draft to dot 6.
Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up.
Measure 2 inches out from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9.
Measure 1 \i inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10.
. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 1 0 and place dot I I .
Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot I I , and draft line F
to line D.
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft to dot II.
Hold the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot
7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F.
Measure 1 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch straight out and
place dot 12.
Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12.
Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up.
771 — — *T"
v> Worn 4- 3
SECOND GORE.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods.
Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2.
Measure I \i inches less than y± of the waist measure on line B from dot
2 and place dot 3.
Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B.
Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and
draft line D straight out.
Measure 2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4.
Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4.
Measure 1 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and yz 'ncn >n and place dot 5.
Measure '2 inch up line A from line D and place dot 6.
Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6.
Place letter W on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5.
Place letter U on dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4.
Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7.
Measure I l/2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place the corner of square on dot 7, the edge on dot 9, and draft line F
2^ inches more than the skirt length.
Measure t,1/- inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10.
Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4.
Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and
place dot I I .
Place letter W on dot I I and draft to dot 10.
Place letter S on dot I I and draft to meet line F 1 1 inches up.
Place 4etter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9.
BACK.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods.
Measure 1-10 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3.
Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and
place dot 4.
Draft line D 1 2 inches straight out from dot 4.
Measure 4 inches less than J^ the skirt length up line A from dot 4 and |^
inch straight in and place dot 5.
Draft from dot 5 to dot 4.
Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 1 1 % inches up trom
dot 5.
Measure 4'/, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E 6
inches more than the skirt length.
Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of line E to
meet line D.
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.
Draft line A one inch from the edge of cloth.
Use the end of cloth for line B.
Measure 50 inches down line A from line B and draft line C straight
out 56 inches.
Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C.
Measure 1 3 \'2 inches down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Measure 2 ',< inches on line B from line A and place dot 4.
Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft a curved
line E from dot 4 to meet line D. (See Diagram) .
Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line
F the width of flounce desired.
Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on
dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired.
Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H
from the end of line F to the end of line G.
This will give the foundation for any style of Flounce desired. See
dotted lines.
6 5* S
^■fcu.^-y.fc B
SKIRT NO. 407.
Use the fold of goods for line A.
Draft line B yi inch from the end of goods.
Measure }4 inch on line A from line JJ and place dot 2-
Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place
dot 3.
Draft line C straight out from dot 3 about i z inches.
Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure i inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E • Vi
inches more than the skirt length.
Place the V2 mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 7-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet
line C-
Allow i/\ mcn 'or seam on line E-
FIRST SIDE PANEL.
Draft line A VL inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods.
Measure yi inch on line A fr°m line B and place dot 2-
Measure I J^ inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and
place dot 3-
Draft line C lA the waist measure straight out from dot 3-
Measure }4 inch less than i^ of waist measure on line B fr°m hne A and
place dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down.
Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E -
inches more than the skirt length.
Measure 3/£ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D and place dot 8-
Place the % mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet
line C-
SECOND SIDE PANEL.
Draft line A Yx inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B l'i inch from the end of goods.
Measure 3/£ inch on line B from line A and place dot 2-
Place the l-2 mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down.
Measure z inches more than the skirt length on line A fr°m line B and pla^
dot 3.
Draft line C straight out from dot 3 — 1/2 the waist measure.
Measure l inch less than yl of the waist measure on line B fr°m hne A and
place dot 4-
Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure 2 '2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (J-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar>d place dot 7
Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2
inches more than the skirt length.
Measure 3/£ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8-
Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet
Hne C-
Allow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E-
BACK.
Dratt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure 1 U inches on line A from line B a°d place dot 2-
Measure 2 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place
dot 3.
Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr°m l'ne A and place dot 4-
Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure '2' inch on line D fr°m dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place the *4 mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 8 inches down.
Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar)d place dot 6-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7 and draft line E z
inches more than the skirt length.
Measure l/z the distance between dot 4 ar>d line A on fine B ar,d place dot 8-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 and draft line C from dot 3 to the end of
line C-
Allow y± inch for seam on lines A and E-
SKIRT NO. 405.
USE FRONT OF 407.
Draft line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure i}( inches on line A from line B and place dot 2-
Measure 1 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2
and place dot 3-
Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below
dot 2-
Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6-
Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and G-
Measure 2 > 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9-
Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot H and draft line
E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9
Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot
9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line).
Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end
if line E-
Allow Vx inch seam on lines A and E-
BACK.
Draft line A V\ inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B /i inch from the end of goods.
Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2-
Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2
and place dot 3-
Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure V, inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
12 , -\*
9
ii
B
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> 403
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p
Place the ^ mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 4 inches below
dot 2-
Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 6-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 7 and draft
line E 2^ inches more than the skirt length.
Measure j4 of the waist measure on line B from line A and place
dot 8-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 and draft line C from the
end of line E to within 5 inches of line A — finish with a straight
line to dot 3-
Allow y^ inch for seams on lines A and E-
SKIRT NO. 403.
USE FRONT OF NO. 407.
Drajt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods.
Dralt line B % inch from the end of goods.
Measure 8T^ inches down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure 1 }i inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2
and place dot 3.
Draft line C 12 inches straight out from dot 3.
Measure 4 inches more than */, of the waist measure on line B from
line A and place dot 4.
Draft line D !6 of the waist measure straight out from dot 2.
Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2.
Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line D and place dot 6,
Measure % inch straight up from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 8.
Use the % mark to draft lines E and F to dot 8.
Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 9.
Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place clot 10.
Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to dot 7.
Place letter V on dot 10 and draft to dot 4.
Measure */> the distance between line A and dot 4 on line B and place
dot 11.
Measure 9 inches from dot 4 on lin° B and place dot 12.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13.
Place the cornei- of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 13 and draft line
G 3jj inches more than the skirt length and place dot 14.
Hold end of tape on dot H and draft from dot 14 to line C.
Allow for seams on lines A and E-
When double box plait is desired, take from the top 3 inches and
and from the bottom 9 inches. See dotted lines.
When a fan plait is desired, add 1 inch to the top and 33.^ to the
bottom. See dotted lines.
DOUBLE BOX PLAIT.
Fold the goods 1 6 inches wide and use the fold for line A.
Draft line B Y inch from the end of goods out 5 inches.
Measure Y inch on line A from line B and place dot 2.
Place letter H on the end of line B and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure 4}4 inches more than the skirt length on the fold of goods
from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Draft line C 1 5 inches straight out from dot 3.
Measure 4 inches on line C from dot 3 and place dot 4.
Draft line E from the end of line B to the end of line C.
Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on line E from line B and
and place dot 5. .
Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4.
Draft the same for a single box plait, making the top 3 inches and the
bottom 12 inches.
For a triple box plait make the top 7 inches and the bottom 19 inches.
Allow for seam on line E.
GOLF, BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT.
USE FRONT OF 407.
SIDE PANEL.
Draft line A Y inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B 5^ inch fr°m the end of goods.
Measure 1 *4 inches on line A h"om hne B and place dot 2.
Measure 1 Y> inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and
place dot 3.
Draft line C ' z inches straight out from dot 3.
Measure j 3 of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2.
Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2.
Measure '/s of waist measure on line D fr°m dot 5 and place dot 6.
Measure I l/i inches from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8.
Use the y2 mark to draft lines P and G from dots 6 and 7 to dot 8.
Measure zy, inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 9.
Measure 2l/2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot il.
Place the corner of square on dot 9» the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line E ' l/z
inches more than the skirt length.
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9.
Hold end of tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet
line C.
Allow y inch seam on lines A and E-
BACK.
Draft line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods.
Measure 5^/4 inches on line A fr°m line B and place dot 2.
Measure 2 y2 inches more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Draft line C ' 2 inches straight out from dot 3.
Measure 1 \u inches less than yz of waist measure on line B fr°m line A and
place dot 4.
Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 4.
Measure y inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5.
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2.
Measure 7 inches on line B fr°m dot 4 and place dot 6.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7.
Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 1 and draft line E 2 Yi
inches more than the skirt length from dot 4.
Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr°m line A and place dot 9.
Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet
line C 5 inches from dot 3.
Allow y inch for seam on lines A and E.
e » 4 b
CHILD'S SKIRT— FRONT.
Use the fold of goods foi line A-
Draft line B ]/2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure J^ inch on line A fr°m 'me B and place dot 2-
Measure the length of skirt on line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 3-
Measure I y inches less than y of the waist measure on line B fr°m 'me A
and place dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure I inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure I inch out from dot 5 ar>d pkce dot 6-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 5. tne edge on dot 7, and draft line E the
length of skirt.
Place letter. H on dot 4 ar>d draft to meet line E 6 inches below dot 5-
Place letter }jf on dot 3 and draft line C t0 the end of line E-
Allow y inch seam on line E-
SIDE.
Draft line A V\ inch fr°m the edge of goods.
Draft line B /^ inch from the end of goods.
Measure zy inches on line A from line B and place dot 2-
Measure the length of skirt on line A fr°m dot 2 and place dot 3-
Draft line C straight out from dot 3-
Measure I inch more than j >'i of the waist measure on line B from line A ar)d
place dot 4
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2-
Measure y inch from dot 4 and place dot 6-
Measure } M inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar|d place dot 8-
Place the corner of square on dot 6, tne edge on dot 8, and draft line E the
length of skirt.
Place letter R on dot 4 ar|d draft to meet line E 5 inches down from dot 6.
Measure I l inches from dot 3 on ''ne C ar|d place dot 9-
Measure I inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter W on dot 10 and draft to the end of line E>
Place letter W on dot 3 and draft to dot 10-
Allow y inch for seam on lines A and E-
Draft
BACK.
line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods.
Draft line B li incn from the end of goods.
Measure 2 ^ : inches on line A fr°m ''ne B ar|d place dot 2-
Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Draft line C straight out from dot 3-
Measure 1 inch more than V3 waist measure on line B from line A ar,d place
dot 4-
Measure M inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 4
Place letter fH on dot 5 ar>d draft to meet line A 8 inches below dot 2-
Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 ar|d place dot 6.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. tne edge on dot 7, and draft line E the
length of skirt.
Measure I 1 inches on line C fr°m dot 3 ar>d place dot 8-
Measure 1 yC, inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter }/f on dot 9 and draft to the end of line E-
Place letter \|f on dot 3 and draft to dot 9-
Allow y inch seam on lines A and E-
When a dart is required, measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making
the dart 1 y, inches at top and to meet 4. inches straight down from the last dot.
te \j it (X*
RIDING SKIRT— NO. I.
Use the edge of goods for line A-
Draft line B % inch from the end of goods.
Measure J inches on line A. from line B, and place dot 2-
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Measure ' j of waist measure on line B» from line A, and place dot 4.
Measure 4!_, inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure zyt, inches on line B, from dot 4, and place dot 6-
Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Measure 1 j£ inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8-
Measure 1 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9.
Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9.
Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 10-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\.
Measure 1 V2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12.
Draft line G from dot 10 to dot 12-
Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2-
Measure the length of skirt on line A. from dot 2, and place dot 13.
Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13-
Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I.
NO. 2.
Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 3 inches on line A, from line B, and place dot 2-
Measure 4^ inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 3.
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4.
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5.
Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6
Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6-
Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6-
Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7.
Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8-
Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8-
Measure 8 inches on line B from line A and place dot 9.
Measure 6*4 inches on line B, from dot 9, and place dot 10-
Measure 12 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Measure 6 inches on line B, from dot 10, and place dot 12-
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13.
Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13.
Place letter R on dot H and draft line G to dot 13.
Place the corner of square on dot H, the edge on dot 10, and draft line R
straight out from dot 1 1 .
Measure 8}4 inches on line H, from dot H, and place dot 14.
Place letter F on dot H and draft line I to meet line R 3 % inches from
dot 11.
Place letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15.
Measure 51^ inches on line H, from dot 14, and place dot 16.
Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17.
Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15.
Measure 2^ inches on l.ne H, from dot 16, and place dot 18.
Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19.
Place letter F on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19.
Measure 3 inches on line H, from dot 13, and place dot 20-
Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length, straight down from dot 20
and place dot 21-
Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21-
Place the corner 0f square on dot 21 and draft line R straight in 24
nches.
Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 14 and place dot 15.
Measure 12 inches in on line K» from dot 21, and place dot 22-
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23-
Measure 1 o inches straight down from the end of line R and place dot 24-
Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 23-
Place letter R on dot 23 and draft to dot 24-
Place letter S on dot 24 and draft to dot 8-
NO. 3.
Use the edge of goods for line A-
Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods.
Measure 9 inches on line A> fr°m une B. and place dot 2-
Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr°m
line A and place dot 3-
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4
Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 5'
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6-
Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8-
Measure 31^ inches on line B» from dot 7» and place dot 9'
Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\.
Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H.
Place a dot on line B % the distance between dots 7 ar>d 9 and measure
straight down 1 1 yi inches and place dot 12-
Place letter G on dot 4 and draft line P to dot 12.
Place letter H on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 12-
Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13-
Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13.
Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13-
Measure 3 i/J inches on line B, from dot \\, and place dot 14-
Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15-
Measure 10 inches on line B» fr°m dot 14, and place dot 16.
Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17.
Place letter R on dot H and draft line J to dot 15-
Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17.
Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18-
Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19-
Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20-
Measure 1 % inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21-
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22-
Measure 1 1 inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and
place dot 23-
Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23-
Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place
dot 24
Measure I 2 inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 25-
Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26-
Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2-
Measure 8 inches on line A» from dot 25, and place dot 27-
Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot 28-
Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28-
Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24-
Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29-
Draft line L> from dot 29, to dot 23-
Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot 30-
Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot 31-
Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31-
Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30, and pl»ce dot 32-
Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 32 and place dot 33-
Place letter S on dot 33 and continue line M to dot 31-
Place letter R on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33-
POCKET.
Drafc lines A ancl B % inch fr°m tne edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 }4 inches on line A» fr°m une B» and place dot 2-
Measure 4 inches on line B> fr°m line A. and place dot 3-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 3 a°d draft line C t0 dot 2-
Measure 414 inches on line A. fr°m dot 2, and place dot 4-
Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5-
Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 4. and place dot 6-
Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7-
Measure 14 inches on line A. fr°m dot 2» and place dot 8-
Draft line E straight out from dot 8-
Measure 3 inches on line E» fr°m dot 8. and place dot 9.
Place letter D on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9-
Measure zyi inches from dot 9. on line E. and place dot 10-
Place letter B °n dot 7 afid draft to dot 10-
TROUSERS FRONT.
Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr°m 'ine
B and place dot 2.
Measure 3 inches on line B fr°m line A and place dot 3.
Measure 4'^ inches on line A. from line B. and place dot 4.
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5.
Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2.
Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and
draft line D out 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2.
Measure 2 inches more than ^ the hip measure on line D fr°m dot 2 and
place dot 6.
Measure the length of outside ltg measure on line A. from line B, and place
dot 7.
Measure 1^ of waist measure on line B» fr°m dot 3. afid place dot 8.
Measure 2 Vz inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9-
Measure 1 inch from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart.
Measure 2 inches in on line D» fr°m dot 6. and place dot H.
Measure 2 V? inches straight up from dot H and place dot 12.
Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12.
Place letter C on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6.
Measure 6 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13.
Measure 12 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 14.
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15.
Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13.
Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15.
Measure 2 ^ inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from
dot 7 and place dot 16.
Continue line F from dot 15, extending }4 inch below dot 16.
Place letter M on the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7.
Waist ..24
Outside leg measure . . . J 2
Hips 4°
Knee 12
Ankle 9%
BACK.
Draft lines A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods.
Measure 3 l/2 inches on line A, from line B» and place dot 2.
Measure }i of waist measure on line B, fr°m ,ine A. and place dot 3.
Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure i y2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 5.
Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6. and draft line D
down 4 inches.
Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D.
Measure 7^ inches on line A. from dot 2> and place dot 7.
Measure I j£ inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8-
Measure I inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9-
Draft line F from dot 2 to dot 8-
Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 9-
Measure I inch more than ?/* of leg measure on line A, from dot 2, and
place dot 10-
Place the short arm of square even with line A» the corner on dot 10> and
draft line H out 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10.
Measure 2 inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl» from dot 10. and
place dot H.
Measure 5 inches on line A, from d ■■. 10, and place dot 12. ,
Measure 4 inches straight out from -lot 12 and place dot 13-
Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13-
Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 12, and place dot 14-
Measure 4.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15-
Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13-
Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A, from dot 2> ar*d place
dot 16.
Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17-
Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17-
Measure 5 inches from dot 3, on line B, and place dot 18-
Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
Place letter H on dot 3, and draft line K to dot 19-
Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11, on line H, and place dot 20-
Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot H and draft to dot 21-
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22-
Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22-
Measure 3/£ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23-
Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23-
Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place
dot 24.
Extend line L from dot 23 to one inch below dot 24-
Place letter S on the end of line L and draft to dot 17.
Place a dot j/ inch outside of the end of line L and draft to meet line L 4
inches up.
Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line J 4 inches up.
CORSET COVER.
BACK.
Draft lines A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2, on line A fr°m
line B, and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
#
X
*A
% 5/8
Neck Size
7 I 8 1 9
IO
1 1
1 2
•3
H 1 «s
16
•7
18
Dot 3
Ya H\ '
1 yi
'tf
l?8
■^
•s/s *H
174
2
2}i
Measure the distance given jn the neck table, under dot 3> on line B from
line A and place dot 3- **
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure the length of back on line A. from line B. and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out from dot 4-
Measure I inch on line D> from dot 4. and place dot 5-
Measure the distance given in the table for center back and side body on line
D, from dot 5. and place dot 6-
Draft line E. from dot 2, to dot 5-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7-
Measure yt, inch in towards line A. from dot 7, and place dot 8-
Draft line F. from dot 5, to dot 8
Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9-
Measure 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H the
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot H.
Measure i-2 inch less than }■£ of arm's eye measure straight down from dot
11 and place dot 12-
Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H.
Place letter Hon dot 6, and draft line K to dot 13-
Measure >i inch on line D, from dot 6, and place dot 14-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15-
Place letter A on dot 6, and draft line Q to dot 15-
Draft line L from the center of the shoulder to the middle of line D, between
dots 5 and (J.
Place a dot on line H '8 incn each side of line L and draft a dart to meet 2
inches below line H, drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H, and
draft a new line H from the end of dart line to point of shoulder. (See diagram ).
Place letter S on the junction of lines D and L, and draft a slightly curved
line to meet line L 9 inches above line D-
Reverse the curve and draft on the opposite side of line L- (See dotted
lines).
Extend lines F and L about 2 inches below line D, w«h about l/2 inch
spring at bottom. (See dotted lines).
Allow % inch seams on lines E, F, H. K and L- Cut on lines C and J.
UNDER ARM FORM.
Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on Ime D and place dot 2.
Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3-
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure
that distance straight up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4.
Measure I ^A inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure the width of under arm form straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from
dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7.
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2.
Place letter M on dot 1 and draft line B to dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7.
Measure I y2 inches in from dot 2, on nne D, and place dot 8.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9.
Measure i/^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\.
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot \\,
3 S
CORSET COVER.
FRONT.
Draft line A '^-4 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B 1 inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A. from line
B, and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
2 h%
2*A
2 3^
3
1%
lA
3?<
4
4^
4#
43/8
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
12
'3
H
»5
16
•7
18
Dot 3
2
2}i
»#
2 3/i
^A Wi
234
2ji
3
3# 3^
3^
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3> on line B from line
A, and place dot 3-
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 3/£ of the arm's eye measure on line A> from line B> and place
dot 4-
Measure yC, of the arm's eye measure on line A» fr°m line B> and place
dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 6
inches from dot 5-
Measure the width of bust number on line D» from dot 5» and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place
dor 7.
Place letter A on dot 7. and draft line E to dot 6.
Measure the length of front on line A. from dot 2. and place dot 8-
Place letter H on dot 8, and draft line F to dot 7-
Measure 2 inches down line E» from dot 6, and place dot 9-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 9, and draft line 6 out
4 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4-
Measure 1% inches on line F» from dot 8, and place dot 10-
Measure the width of the dart, from dot 10, and place dot H.
Measure 3^ inch from dot H and place dot 12.
Measure ^ inch more than the width of the first dart, from dot 12. and
place dot 13.
Measure the distance between dot 8, and the center of the first dart, and add
y2 inch, then measure that distance on line G. from dot 4. and place dot 14-
Measure the distance between dot 8. and the center of the second dart, and
add 1^ inch and then measure that distance on line Q, from dot 4» and place
dot 15-
Place the A mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14.
Turn the curve over and draft line J.
Draft lines J and K in like manner.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16-
Measure y2 inch straight in from dot 16 and place dot 17-
Draft line J, from dot 10 to dot 17-
Draft lines M, N and 0 parallel with line I,.
Measure 1 3^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
Place letter A on dot 7, and draft line P to dot 19.
Measure 6% inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 20-
Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21-
Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21. and draft line Q the
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot 22-
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D-
Measure 1 )'2 inches up line R, from line D. and place dot 23-
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24-
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6.
Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22-
The front can be curved if desired.
Follow the instructions given in the plain waist draftings.
For low or square neck draft as per dotted lines.
7
i 3
*
•
n
\\
c\ \
6
9
T>
H-
1
eh
y
i
i
"I'
(0
ij
t9
i
%
i
U
i
il —
9
„_
3\
.z
9
J- s
~ h
/o
•
\ V
R
6
fcD \
¥
1
7i
X
I
o
(6
It
rP
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o
13 j .lQ.
1
^
,'
t
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tJ
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f
3
LADIES' CHEM1SB.
FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B s2 'ncn fr°m the e"d of goods.
Measure I inch less than \4 of arm's eye measure down the fold ot goods
from line B and place dot 2-
Measure l inch less than }4 the neck measure on line B. from l'ne A-
place dot 3-
Draft line B straight out from dot 2-
Measure y^ of the neck measure on line B> fr°m dot 2. and place dot 4-
Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 4-
Measure 2 inches more than the table gives for bust number on line B> from
dot 2» and place dot 6.
> Measure 6}4 inches on line B, from dot 3» and place dot 7-
Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 8. and draft line Q y2 the
roportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D.
Measure I j4 inches up line R, from line B» and place dot 9-
Place letter fl on dot 9» and draft line S to dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 9, and extend line S to the end of line Q.
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 10-
Measure I inch straight out from dot 10 and place dot \\.
Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot H, and draft line E the
length desired.
Slightly curve line E as per dotted lines.
Draft line P from the end of line E to line A-
BACK.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods.
Measure I inch less than *4 the arm's eye measure on line A. from line B>
and place dot 2-
Measure I y2 inches less than y2 of neck measure on line B. from line A,
and place dot 3-
Draft line B straight out from dot 2-
Measure \i of the neck measure on line B» from dot 2, and place dot 4-
Measure j4 inch more than l{ of the bust measure on line B, from dot 2.
and place dot 6-
Draft line (J, fr°m dot 3, to dot 4-
Measure 6*^ inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 9-
Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 9, and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H '4
the proportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line R straight down from the end of line H to line B-
Measure I inch up line R, from line B. and place dot 1 1 .
Place letter B on dot H, and draft line S to dot 6-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line H-
Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 12.
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place the corner of square on dot 6. the edge on dot 13, and draft line ,J the
same length as line E in the front.
Slightly curve line J. (See dotted lines).
Draft line F fr°m the end of line E, to line A-
Bust, 36 ; Neck, 12 ; Arm's Eye, 16 ; Length, 36.
± IB
9
S«
3
H
fo
m
7
5,
/b
e
f
LADIES' DRAWERS.
Use the fold oi goods for line A-
Draft line B /2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure 4 inches down line A> from line B> and place dot 2-
Measure ]/2 of the waist measure on line B. from hie A. and place dot 3-
Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 4-
Measure I J^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5-
Place letter G on dot 3. and draft Une C to dot 2-
Place letter Q on dot 5. ar>d draft line D to dot 2-
Measure the length of leg measure on line A> from dot 2» and place dot 6.
Draft line E 3 inches less than the knee measure straight out from dot 6.
Measure 1 "j inches more than */C of the leg measure down the fold of goods
from dot 2 and place dot 7-
Draft line F straight out beginning 10 inches from dot 7-
Measure 5 inches more than y± the hip measure from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Measure 2)^ inches in from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Measure % °* the leg measure straight up from dot 9 and place dot \Q.
Place the ]/2 mark on dot 5 and draft line Q to dot 10-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 8 and draft to dot \Q.
Draft line H straight down from dot 4. extending 1 inch below line F-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot \\.
Place letter Q on dot 1 1 , and draft line J to the end of line E-
Place letter T on dot 8. and draft to dot H.
Place the 0 point 01 curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line B-
Cut on lines (J> D and E- Allow I J^ inch seams on lines Q and B f°r
facing. (See dotted lines).
Waist, 24 ; Hip, 40 ; Knee, I 5 ; Length, 24.
LADIES' GOWN.
FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods.
Measure % neck measure on line A» from line B. and place dot 2-
Measure % of neck measure on line B, from line A> and place dot 3-
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 6^4 inches on line B. from dot 3> and place dot 4-
Measure l/2 inch straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter A °n dot 3> the edge of curve on dot 5> and draft line Q l/2
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure 2 inches less than V2 the arm's eye measure straight down from the
end of Une Q and place dot 6-
Place the short arm even with line A, the long arm on dot 6, and draft ine
D straight out from dot 6-
Measure 14 inch straight up from dot 0 and place dot 7-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 7, and draft line S to the end of line Q.
Measure 1 inch more than J^ of the arm's eye measure on line D. fr°m do*
6, and place dot 8-
Measure 1 ^ inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Place letter j) on dot 7 and continue line S to dot 9-
Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10-
Measure 21/, inches straight out from dot 10 and place dot 11.
Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot H, and draft hre E
the desired length.
Draft line F straight in rrom the end of line E to line A-
BACK.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B ^ 'nch from the end of goods.
Measure )A inch on line A> fr°m line Bi and place dot 2-
Measure '/g of the neck measure on line Bt fr°m line A> and place do* 3-
A-S-t "3
(p 2 &
y g 'S
3H
~3>
"lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3, on line B. and place dot 9-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H J4
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure 2 inches less than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line A, fr°m ''ne
Bj and place dot 4-
Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 4-
Measure 1 inch more than l/{ of the bust measure on line D fr°m dot 4, and
place dot 5-
Place letter D on the end of line H, and draft line J to dot 5-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot (J-
Measure I '4 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7'
Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E the
length of line E in front.
Draft line F straight in from the end ot line E to line A.
LADIES' UNDER SKIRT.
FRONT.
Use the told of goods for line A-
Draft line B '2 inch fr°m the end of goods.
Measure }4 inch on line A fr°m iine B, and place dot 2-
Measure % °f tne waist measure on line B, fr°m l'ne A, and place dot 3-
Measure j^. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Place letter R on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 2-
Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5-
Draft line D straight out from dot 5, about 10 inches.
Measure V2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6-
Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E %
inch more than the skirt length.
Place letter R on dot 4, and draft to dot 7-
Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E to
meet line D-
SIDE GORE.
Use the edge of goods for line A-
Draft line B }{. inch fr°m the end of goods.
Measure 4 inches less than % of waist measure on line B> from line A, and
place dot 2-
Measure ^ inch on line A, from ,ine B, and place dot 3-
Measure 1 l/2 inches straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Place letter R" on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 4-
Place letter R on dot 4, and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 3-
Measure l/2 inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 3, and place
dot 5.
Draft line D straight out from dot 5-
Measure 3 inches on line B fr°m dot 2, and place dot 6-
Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E '
J i.h more than the skirt length.
Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end of
line E to meet line D-
BACK.
Use the edge of goods for line A-
D-af* line B % inch from the end of goods.
measure \:2 of the waist measure on line B from line A. and place dot 2-
Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place
dot 3.
Draft line D straight out from dot 3-
Measure 2 inches on line B fr°m dot 2, and place dot 4-
Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 5, and draft line E '
inch more than the skirt length.
Y'.oA the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end ot
line E to meet line D-
Allow at bottom for width of hem desired.
TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL.
First see that the lining is cut y2 inch longer than the measure. Place
the lining on the cloth. See that the cloth is perfectly smooth. Run a
basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front
and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back, side-body and under arm shape.
Now push the lining up % inch and run a basting across the waist line.
Now grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting (% inch stitch)
% inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist line.
Now baste in the tracing }£ inch stitch. Make the lining slightly full
for about 1 inch below the waist line. The bones must be put in easy
up to the waist line, when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above
the waist line they must be sprung in at least y2 inch in order to remove
the fullness in the lining. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam
of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line
to do your basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point
of the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be longe.'
than % inch stitches. Be careful to baste in small stitches around tht
arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching.
In joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and remove
the pins as you baste. Measure your waist before stitching the under
arm seam, and if large or small, stitch inside or outside of the tra«"*
lines.
A)Vo\.A »<j^«oS5'
BICYCLE BLOOMERS.
.Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B %. inch from the end of goods.
Measure 2 inches down line A from line B, and place dot 2-
Measure 1% inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3
Measure 2 inches more than % of the waist measure on line B from
line A, and place dot 4.
Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5
Place letter M on dot 3, and draft line D to dot 5.
Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A from dot 2, and
place dot 6-
Measure , inch less than % of outside leg measure on line A from dot
2, and place dot 7.
^Jj"*' Sl°Tt arm °f S(^uare even with line A, the corner on dot 7
and draft line E straight out, beginning , 2 inches from dot 7
7, 'IdpTce Z B. m0rC tha" * °f thC hlP meaSUrC °n lme E fr°m d0t
Measure 3}< inches in from dot 8 on hne E, and place dot 9.
Measure 5 inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot 10
Measure S% inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot U
Measure 7 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 12.
Measure 8 inches straight up from dot H and place dot 13.
Measure 1 inch from dot 4 on line B, and place dot U.
Draft line C from dot 14 to dot 2.
Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12
Place the point of curve on dot 4 and draft line G to dot 13
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15
fromedot6 LdCpt eX is" thC meaSUrC af0Und thC aDkle Str^ht °Ut
Place letter G on dot 8, and draft line H to dot 15
Place letter G on dot 15, and extend line H 1 inch beiow dot 16-
Draft hne J from the end of line G to dot 6-
SKIRT YOKE.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B 1 inch from the end of goods
dotT5^6 6/2 inChCS d°Wn thC f°ld °f g00ds from line B and Place
Hold the end of tape line on the junction of line B and the fold of
goods and draft curved line C from dot 2 to line B
Measure 2 inches on line C from dot 2, and place dot 3.
Place dots 4, 5 and 6 on line C 2 inches apart.
Measure 1 inch from dot 6 on line C, ana place dot 1
Measure 5 inches straight down from 7 and place dot 8
D ^iVfnches"" °f SqUarC °n d0t 6 thC 6dge °n d0t 8> alld draft line
^!tCVhe J0™" °i Tare on the Junction of line B and the fold of
goods, the edge on dot 2, and measure down according to size of wais
diagram.) * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do'ted lines ™ the
Place the edge of square on dots 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make a dot in the
same manner, according to the waist measure
dorado*:011™6'1 Hne ^ Pladng leUer J °" thC firSt d0t and draft from
This will give you a correct shape at the waist line
The yoke can be made any desired width, but it must be shaped at the
back according to line D.
Vienna
Millinery Institute
The entire art of
FRENCH
MILLINERY
TAUGHT
From the making of Wire Frames to the
Final Finishing of the Hat
or Bonnet.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING
WAIST.
To arrange the lining for drafting, fold it so that the drafting will be made on
the wrong side of the lining. Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge
towards vou.
If the lining is to be put on full then it must be drafted l/2 inch longer than
the measure calls for.
When your drafting is finished ( it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together
well before tracing and cutting.
Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and be a great assist-
ance in your basting.
Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. Never raise it with your
hand. When cut put a small notch at the waist line.
Trace the front, waist line, and darts with one wheel, all other sewing lines
with both wheels, making a '^ inch seam, except on the shoulders and line E
in the front and line B in the under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam
so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired.
The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the
drafting.
TO CUT THE GOODS.
See that the goods are folded double ( unless they are stripes or plaids. ) ( See
instructions for matching stripes, plaids and figures. )
Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. Place the lining
on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to
cut saving), unless the nap or figure runs the other way, which of course must
be the first consideration. It is best to place all of the forms in position first and
see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods, then pin carefully
before cutting.
YOU LEARN ALL THE FINE POINTS
This system is so thoroughly taught that
scholars after finishing are fully com-
petent to take charge of business for
themselves, or take leading positions
for others.
Vienna
Millinery Institute
5 WEST 14th STREET, NEW YORK
Be very careful in basting. No matter how perfect vour draftings are the
waist can be ruined bv improper basting. Do not draw the basting thread too
tight, it will draw the goods out of position. Before removing the basting thread^
clip them every few inches, otherwise thev are apt 10 pull or break the thread 01
the goods.
Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lining on the goods
right side up, then pin at the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist
line with a little ease, pinning the lining to the material. Baste the waist line first,'
then baste the other lines in the tracing up and down from the waist line with a
stitch from ^ to ]/2 inch long. Do not put your hand under or raise up to
baste,
shape.
Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm
Place the lining on the goods. See that the front edge of the lining and goods
meet. Pin the lining on a little easy, getting it all in place, then baste across
the waist line, then line A. Now pin and baste the darts, which should br
done very carefully, beginning at the top or point and basting down, using a V
inch stitch. Now baste line E, starting from the waist line up. Baste shoulder
next, then around the neck and arm hole with a y± inch stitch, being careful not
to stretch the goods as it is cut partly on the bias.
In taking up the darts, first pin carefully, beginning at the top of the dart and
holding lines \ and K a little full for about 3 inches above the waist line, begin
basting at the point of the dart, using a small firm stitch.
These Tailoring Irons are up to
date and the most practical irons to
be had. They are cold handle and
heat retainers. You can accomplish
double the amount of work (without
reheating) than with any other irons.
The price is $2.00 per set (two irons
and stand). We do not send them
C. O. D. You cannot obtain them
elsewhere.
PRESSING CURVE
TO JOIN.
Take one side of the back and one side body, placing the two waist line;
together and pin fast. Now pin in the traced or sewing lines, being careful nol
to stretch either piece, so that both traced lines will come out even. Now -pin
from the waist line down ; begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as
you baste, making a small stitch, not over y^ inch. Now baste down from the
waist line.
Take the under arm shape and pin to the side body, being careful to have the
waist lines meet ; baste from waist line up and down. Now join the back, pin-
ning at the waist line, and then in the traced lines up and down ; begin basting
at the waist line up, then down.
TO STITCH.
First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, and a medium stitch
(not too short), run the machine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast).
Use silk in stitching in every case. Begin the back seams starting at the neck,
and stitch just inside of the basting, stretching the seam well for about 8 inches
above the waist line, while stitching, in order that the seam will give to the bone
when that is sprung in so as not to break the stitch in the seam.
Stitch the next, or side body seam, with the side body up, beginning at dot 2,
and stitching down, just inside of the basting ; stretch the seam while stitching
for about 6 inches above the waist line. Stitch the under arm shape on the side
body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, ar>d stitching down just inside
of the basting, stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the
waist line. To stitch the left side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch
up, following the same instructions, this will place the side body and under arm
shape the same as the right side.
Front. — Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line and stitching up
and down. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart, beginning ^4
inch below the point of the dart, and finishing i^ inch above, nearly parallel
with the thread of the goods ; this will obviate any fullness.
PRESSING.
First, remove the basting from the seams only. Never press a curved seam
on a flat surface ; if you have nothing better turn a rocking-chair bottom up, and
use the rocker. See that the iron is well heated — not too hot ; start pressing at
the bottom of the waist ; take plenty of time and be careful that the iron does
not come in contact with any other part of the waist. Do not stretch the seams.
If heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened.
This curved pressing board is as
necessary to the dressmaker as it is
to the ladies' tailor. Every waist,
sleeve, dart in skirt, and any curved
seam in any garment should be pressed
over the curved presser.
This curve must not be copied
without our consent.
The price is |i.oo.
TO PREPARE FOR BONING.
First take the back seam and notch at the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches
above ; then trim and round the seam off" at the notches ; now either overhand
or bind the seam ; if binding is used be careful and put it on slightly full so as to
prevent any tightness on the seam. Notch the side body or curved seam at the
waist line and zl/2, 5 and 8 inches above waist line ; after notching finish off
the seam the same as back, the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side
body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the
other seams.
Front. — Cut open the dart to within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide
part down to y2 inch in width. Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2
inches above, and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist
line, and finish the same as the other seams. (The reason for notching the seams
is to allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. ) Now fold the front
hem in along line A, and baste y, inch back to prepare the front for button holes
or hooks and eyes. When buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of
lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes. Do not turn in the
r&j[^#i|!a?sf>
Warren's
Featherbone
Is the Standard Dress Stiffening of the world.
Its peculiar quill construction makes it the
lightest, most durable and flexible dress-
boning material on the market.
Warren's Featherbone is used and recom-
mended bv such prominent fashion creators
as
Mme. L. Stewart, of Arnold, Constable & Co.
Mr. Paul Sarraco, of" John Wanamaker.
Mme. Gabler, of Lord & Taylor.
Mr. Henry Levy, of Stern Bros.
Miss S. C. Griffiths, of Alcott & WeeKes.
Mr. H R. Hickson, of Everall Bros.
Mrs. Frazer, of Simpson, Crawford & Simpson
Mr. I. Levy, of Jas. McCreery & Co.
Mr. S. Brown, Ladies' Tailor, New York. ,
The Bergdorf-Goodman Co., Robes et Manteaux,
New York.
Moschowitz Bros., Ladies' Tailors, New York.
Redfern's, Robes, New York.
Isn't that good evidence of its worth ?
Accept no substitute, but get Warren's, the
one and only Featherbone. Sold by all
dealers. None genuine without the feather
trademark. Send for "Featherbone Meth-
ods." It's FREE.
The Warren Featherbone Co.
General Offices, Three Oaks, Mich.
New York, 808 Broadway
Boston, 7 Temple Place
Chicago, 704 Harshall Field Annex Building
left side, as that is used as a fly, by putting on a tape just back of line A. t0 s,a.v
the buttons. When • hooks and eyes are used it is well to turn back and
fold the lining along line A, and stitch '& inch back from the edge. It is best
to place a bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running
up ; to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y£ inch
further in (or the width of the bone. ) The bone should be placed in before
putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from
edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. Face over the hooks and eyes with
a narrow bias strip.
Real whalebones are always good and should be prepared by soaking in cold
or tepfid water. (Never in hot, as that makes them brittle.) We also recom-
mend Feather Bone. When the single casing is used, it should be sewed on
firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above,
the balance put in slightly full. Turn the end of the binding down forming a
loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly.
Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom
to the top of the loop. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^
inch below the top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness
in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. Then hoop the
bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten
firmly 1 inch below the waist line. When double casing is used, cut the casing
2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the casing, turn the upper end
of the casing down I y£ inches and fasten, the balance to be turned up at the
bottom and fastened. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam •
inch up from the bottom of the waist. Now spring the bone \!z inch and fasten
firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone. Sew both sides to the seam
down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. This will force the hoop part
within the proper position. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The
length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Use a bone
2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones for each side of
the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure.
The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi 'ncn of the point ot
the dart. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. Co.vered and ever ready
steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. A nice
finish for the bones is to feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using
some pretty contrasting color.
Now put the waist together, joining the front to the under arm shape, begin-
ning at the waist line and pinning up. Then pin down from the waist line.
Baste- the same as the other seams from the waist line up and down. Now join
the shoulder, stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back
and pin and baste with the front towards you. The back shoulder can be put
on full, should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. Press
well. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish
the same as other seams.
Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line and measure the waist
and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure.
Pin the waist lines together aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired.
Prepare the canvass for the bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 l/, inches deep,
stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Then turn up canvas
and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining, this will
make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. Now cut the facing
bias I y? to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, stretching so as to shape smoothly to
the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling. Turn the upper
edge in and fell with a light stitch, being careful not to catch through the lining.
Measure the neck of the dress and add 3^ inch to the measure and draft collar
according to instructions. Use tailor canvas for foundation. It the canvas is
Side Plaiters
French Accordion
Button Making and
Pinking Machines
These moulds are manufactured in the
following widths ready for use. Prices as
follows:
12 inches wide, 9 yds long in frame $3.50
18 " " 9 " " " 5.00
24 " " 9 " " " 7.50
36 " " 9 " " " 12.00
48 " "9 " " " 18.00
These machines will plait any kind of
material.
We furnish a full instruction sheet with
each machine.
Order direct from the
VIENNA INSTITUTE
5 West 14th Street, N. Y. City, U. S. A.
used double, then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Fn
the canvas on the material and cut j£ inch larger all around. Cut the lining the
same size. Now baste the canvas on the material and fold over the edge and
baste to the canvas. Catch down to the canvas with a long stitch without catch-
ing through.
Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back. Then pin
around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. Place the hooks
on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on.
Turn in the edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down.
A waist is never finished without a belt, as that holds it firmly in position, if
put in properly. Cut the belt 2 inches longer than the waist measure and finish
off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook
and eye so that the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre
seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line.
Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams.
HOOKS AND EYES.
Fold the lining on line A and stitch % inch from the edge. First mark for
hooks and eyes, placing them I inch apart. Spread the rings in both hook and
eye % inch apart, this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. Sew the
hook to the inside, with the bill even with the stitched line. Sew through each
ring three times, then over each branch, then under the bill, near line A- Now
place the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line A-
Sew through the rings the same as the hook, and then at each side of the bow.
Sew on alternatively until even with the top of. the darts. Then all hooks on
the right side, face with lining 1 inch deep.
SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS.
Place the lining on the material, having the warp in each running the sami
way (the diagram shows the sleeve running the right way). Pin the lining on
before cutting. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up, then place the lining
on the cloth right side up, pin the lining on easy, baste through the center of the
sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch, then baste in the traced lines, beginning
at dot 5» ar>d baste up and down, using a y-i inch stitch. Baste the outside
seam in the same manner, then baste top and bottom.
Baste the under part in the same manner. Join by placing dots 5 together
and pin up and down in the tracing. Fold the top of the sleeve down, having
dot 2 meet the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9- Pin up and down to
within 1 y2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about |/£ mc^ which must be eased
in to the elbow. Baste in the tracing with a ^ inch stitch, with the upper
part next to you. First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the
basting, with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Remove the
basting from the seams. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front
seam at dot 5 and 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. Round off the
notches and press over a curved seam bound. Seams can be overcast or bound
to correspond to the waist. Face the bottom the same as the waist. Place a
notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam.
Gather between the notches y4 >nch from the'end. Place the sleeve in, holding
it towards you, pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the
last dart. Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the front
seam to the notch easy. Draw up the gathers, giving the most fullness at the
top. Baste with a small stitch. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a
firm back stitch. Trim off and overcast. Shields should be tacked lightly
through the tape. Never place the needle through the rubber. The fullness
in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow
(see dotted lines), or it can be gathered for about z inches under the point of
the elbow.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT.
Draft the skirt linings according to instructions. Place the goods on the table
right side up and see that they are perfectly smooth. Place the fold of the front
lining even with the fold of the goods, bottom at the lower end of goods, and
SKIRT RULE
In order to obtain perfection in
stitching skirts you should have a
skirt rule about 45 inches long, in
order to give a perfectly straight seam.
These rules are marked in inches
both ways. If you expect to do
perfect work you must have good
tools.
The price is 95 cents.
IMPORTED FRENCH
SILVERED STEEL
When a less expensive stay than a
whalebone is desired we would advise
the French watch spring silvered
steels. They give perfect satisfaction
to our customers. They are very
flexible and strong.
We prepay postage except in gross
lots. Price, per dozen properly as-
sorted, 25 cents; by the gross $2.00.
pin firmly, then cut the goods. In cutting the side gores place the straight edge
of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. Cut the
other gores in the same manner ; always see that the thread of the lining and
the thread of the goods run the same way. Cut the stiffening to match each
separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of
the goods. This can be cut any desired width ; from I o to 1 8 inches is best.
The stiffening can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3 or 4.
inches long. Now stitch across the top without turning in. Then pin the out-
side material on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come be-
tween the lining and the goods. Baste through the center of the front with a
1 )A inch stitch, beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom
of skirt, then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge, beginning at the top and
basting down and across the bottom. Baste the remaining parts in the same
manner.
Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the
seam down '4 inch from the edge. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch
the bias edge. Now baste, using a '^ 'ncn stitch. It is absolutely necessary
to have all seams perfectly straight, and to do this it is best to have a long straight
rule (about 45 inches), and mark a line just outside of the basting to guide the
stitching. Stitch with the bias side down next to the feed, stitching one side
up, the other down. Remove the basting and trim the seam evenly ready for
hinding or overhanding.
Pressing. — Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material
when pressing, as it is quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron ;
open the seam well before placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when
pressing so as to give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on
the table. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Now
pin the corresponding seams together at the top, then the center of the back,
draw each seam down evenly and pin at the bottom. Take tape measure and
measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and
mark. Now measure down the first seam y inch more than the skirt measure
and mark, measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark.
The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer
than the skirt measure ; make the remaining part of the skirt the same length.
When the back measure is shorter than the front, the difference should be taken
from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. Trim the
bottom of the skirt y inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the
bottom y^ inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being careful that the
stitch does not come through. (If a facing is desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches
deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much
fullness at the top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and
fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the bottom, fold the
velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop y£ inch below
the edge of the skirt, then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down.
Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to
the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. The
facing can be about 1 lA inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. Cut
the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure, making it 1 inch wide. Turn
in the band 'X inch on each end, mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end.
Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the
front, pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. The back can be
either gathered or plaited ; sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or
two large hooks and eyes. Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt.
THE FRENCH METHOD.
The French method to finish a skirt is to seam the cloth and lining separately,
taking care to make the seams in both cloth and lining the same. Press the
seams in the lining open. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom,
having it run the same thread as the lining, cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep
(always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening.) Shrink hair cloth and
linen before cutting. When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be
strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the
hair cloth. The upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a
narrow bias strip, this should be basted on very carefully, holding the hair cloth
easy so as to prevent stretching. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the
wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining. If canvas, stitch to the
lining i^ inch from the edge. If hair cloth, stitch through the binding. Press
the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Place
the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining.
Pin the center at the top and then at the seams, each side. Now smooth the
cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. Baste down the
center of front with a i inch stitch, then each side seam, and finish the balance
of the skirt in the same manner, being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient
to make the lining easy. Now pare off the cloth at the back seam even with
the lining and join the back seam lining and cloth together, leaving 9 or 10
inches open at the top for placket. Finish the balance of skirt as per previous
instructions.
DROP SKIRT.
A drop skirt is made by seaming the material and lining separately. When
silk lining is used (which is' most desirable for a drop skirt) it should be cut from
8 to 1 2 inches shorter than the skirt length (according to the width of knife
pleating used. ) It will require three times the width of the skirt for knife
pleating. When ruffles are used cut the skirt the full length, allowing 2 inches
tor hem. The outside material should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the
actual skirt length to allow tor hem, which should be blind stitched over. (See
instructions for blind stitching.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according
to previous instructions. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in
plaits or gathers as desired. To make a clean finish, place a seam binding on
Hat to cover the unfinished edge, stitching on both edges to the band.
A drop skirt should always be fitted before finishing, as it is apt to sag around
the hips and back.
VERY ERECT FORMS.
Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have a narrow back in propor-
tion to their bust measure. Take a width of back measure, starting at the center
of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the
arm hole or where the arm hole should come, and use this measure instead of 14,
of the bust measure given in the instructions, to locate dot 12- For instance
take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure, if the width of back was 6, this would
indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure.
Draft line E fr°m dot 2 to dot 5- In drafting the front take the difference
between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the
back) which is 6. Now take 2/3 of 6, which is 4, added to 42, makes 46.
Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front.
FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM.
Use the instructions for very erect forms and make the following additional
changes. When the front measure is 2 inches longer than the back, draft line
E (in the back) from dot 2 to dot 5. draft line B (>n the side form) beginning 1
inch below dot 4- Make line A ln the under arm form the same length as line
B in the side body. Measure up from dot 3) >n the under arm form) I inch
less than the under arm measure and place dot 7» and draft line B> extending I
inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front, lower the points of the darts 1 inch
and draft line K with the yi mark, curve in. The diagram will show the cor-
rect draftings.
If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking
measure in drafting, basting, or by a mistake on the part of the worker.
Always measure for draftings before tracing and cutting your linings. Do not
neglect this.
Grean
Designer of Liadies'
Costumes
Models for the Trade
And COSTUMES TO ORDER
No. 19 East 33d Street
NEW YORK
Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue
' X ifie waist, draw it in proper position on the form, then fasten down
. 5 "iiit and see it there we any changes necessary.
If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck, it is probably caused by a too
long back measure. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness
from the back, this will necessitate the cutting off" of about Y2 inch from line (J-
If the waist, draws to one side it is because the center back seam was not joined
evenly. Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the
basting is directly in the tracing. Should the front of the waist bind across the
bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. Let out the under
arm seam — in most cases that will answer. When the waist is loose over the
bust, the front measure has been taken too long. Open the shoulder seam and
draw up the front to fit. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the
shoulder seams. If the arm's eye gaps in front, it is because the lining has been
stretched. Take a small dart in the lining and then draw the outside material
smooth over the lining and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam.
To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when
the basting is done. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining
being drawn too tight in seaming. Remove the basting and draw the material
tight over the lining. For a French bias dart, fold a small plait in the lining at
the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods.
Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the
side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. It will be neces-
sary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form
and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form.
Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv
the back seam of the dart being stretched. This side ot the dart should always
be basted in easy.
Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on
machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Fullness on the shoulder,
near the neck, is caused by high shoulders. (See instructions to locate the
height of shoulders.') Open the seam at the point of shoulder, this will allow
the waist to drop and remove the fullness. This change will necessitate an
alteration in the curved seam joining the back.
To Avoid Alterations. — Be very careful in taking the measure. See that the
drafting is properly done and basted carefully in the traced lines. Read in:
structions for basting and stitching with care and you will seldom have
alterations.
Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient
layers of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. Draw out some ot the
cotton at the edges to make it thin, then tack the lining, using an inch stitch,
catching the lining very lightly. These pads can be lined if desired.
When one shoulder is lower than the other use a pad to make it correspond
with the high one. When one hip is high pad the other side. For a flat
bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to
enlarge. When a woman has a full bust, and hollow next to the arm, use a
pad tacked under the shield.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING.
To obtain the most satisfactory results it is necessary to select an all wool
cloth (not dress goods) with a sufficient body to permit ot its being shaped to
the form with the iron. You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths, some
will need much more pressing than others. All cloths for tailoring must be
sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. The most simple and effective
way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin y2 yard
longer than the cloth to be sponged. Wet it thoroughly and wring out well.
Lay the muslin over the table, place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the
fold) y2 yard from the end of muslin. Fold the end of muslin over the end of
cloth and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours, as it
must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. After removing the goods from
sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long
and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron, placing
a cotton cloth over tbe goods to prevent scorching, be sure that the cloth is
thoroughly dry before cutting, as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry.
(i C thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth t
S ' $ y \N • \
mm
It is best
light or medium weight cloth to use a soft
cambric interlining in coat or jacket. (See waist instructions for tracing, cut-
ting and basting. ) it is well, particularly for those inexperienced, to fit the
jacket before stitching. Use a tailor linen canvas for the front in the place ot
interlining, which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before
using. Cut the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions, including
the reveres. Baste the dart in the canvas, then join the front at the under arm
seam and shoulder with the seams out, including the dart seam and shape the
canvas perfectly to the form. This will require judgment, as a great deal of the
fine work comes in here. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas at the
shoulder, or to place a V in according to the figure. ' (Lap all seams in canvas.)
Place a dart in the arm's eye. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the
waist line, from the dart to the under arm seam; cut and lap the seam. Cut
and lap the regular dart seam, it will be necessary to use an extra-thickness of
canvas, beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending
to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. When an extra foundation is
required, an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added (see diagram
for the shape of both.) Begin stitching at the point of dart, going around in
circles about % inch apart (see dotted lines in diagram. ) The canvas is now-
ready to be pressed into shape. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness
is to be removed (use a hot iron.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open.
Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. (See instructions for
making pockets).
Take the cloth and smooth it out over the canvas, basting in traced lines with
£ inch stitch. Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder, with a i/ inch
stitch. Stretch the cloth over the canvas each side of the
down line A and around the
across the shoulder.
<i inch stitch.
, viiiii a y^
e basting, and pin
arm's eye and down the under arm seam, then
Baste up line A and around the neck, then on the shoulder
in traced lines and around the arm's eye y^ inch from the edge and in the traced
lines down the under arm seam. Baste up the front and around the revere 3/±
inch from the edge, and the full length of the front, each side of the dart. After
stitching the back seams on the wrong side, trim the seam of the lining close to
the stitching and press the seams open over a curved seam board. The cloth
front must be made to fit the linen foundation perfectly. When the cloth is
tight over the canvas dampen and stitch to fit. Remove all fullness over the
canvas by pressing, using a wet cloth and hot iron. ( See pressing.)
Place an extra strip of canvas on the left side, 1 inch from the edge, to form a
stay for the buttons.
Crease the revere, beginning on line (J, half wav between dots 2 and 3,
ceasing it down as far as you may desire. The canvas should be slightly eased
on the cloth before padding to permit the reveres to roll over in position. The
padding should be done by sewing a % inch stitch on the outside of the canvas
aid catching the cloth with invisible stitches the full shape of the revere, leaving
V2 inch at the edge (see diagram.) Baste a )4 inch tape around the revere
and down the front, holding the edge easy to the tape, this will hold the revere
in shape and give a firm edge. ( See instructions for pressing. ) Draft the
collar according to instructions. . Cut the canvas K inch larger all around the
co'lar. Cut four pieces of cloth the same size as the canvas and join the back
of the canvas and cloth for collar and facing separately. Press the seams open,
b«fp the canvas on the cloth easy (see dotted lines in the diagram for creasing.)
Stitch with the canvas up in the dotted lines, stitching the balance towards the
edge that joins the neck % inch apart.
Pad the collar the 'same as revere, beginning at the left end and going back
within 1/ inch of the edge and end of collar. ( See pressing. )
ot the collar to the center of the back (canvas up) and baste
and forth
Place the center
a--ovrd each side to line A- Stitch a 3,i inch seam and press open. Baste
around the fold of the collar and down the fold of the revere with an overhand
stitch to prepare for pressing (see instructions for pressing) . The facing must
be cut ) inch longer than the front, to allow for easing, and to extend from the
ovtes :f the shoulder to the front of the dart, continuing straight down the
length of the coat. Notch the facing at line A in the neck and also at dot 3.
Join the collar facing to the revere facing from line A to within 1 % inches of
€lite Styles fashion Journal
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VIENNA INSTITUTE
5 West 14th St., N. Y. City, U. S. A.
dot 3 on the shoulder. See that the collar facing extends below line A the same
distance that the collar is below line A on the jacket. Shape the bottom ot the
coat the length desired. Cut a bias piece of canvas 3 inches deep and stretch to
fit the coat at the bottom and baste in. Turn up the bottom of coat }4 inch
deep. Trim out each seam to prevent bulk. After pressing the fold in the collar
and revere, arrange the facing by placing the back seam in the collar right side
of facing to cloth, placing edge of facing yi incn outside of the edge of coat;
basting the cloth easy to collar. See that the seam that joins the revere and col-
lar together are placed over the corresponding seam in the jacket, then baste the
facing along the revere, easy to the break, then quite full for 3 or 4 inches
to prevent tightness over the break. Continue basting, holding the facing
easy to the end. To stitch, place on the machine, facing down, and seam
y£ inch on canvas all around. Trim the canvas close to the seam; trim
the cloth a trifle wider than the canvas and trim the facing a trifle wider than
the cloth, this will avoid a heavy seam. When basting over the edge of facing,
baste with strong cotton and a small stitch, working out the edge of cloth even
with the edge of facing with the fingers, also see that the corners are turned out
well. Remove the basting when the roll has been pressed. Arrange the facing
over the creased roll in the collar and revere and baste with an overhand stitch.
Basie down the front of facing with a catch stitch to hold the facing in position
on the canvas (see pressing.) Stitch the edge to correspond with the stitching
on the pocket. Place the button holes on the right side (see instructions for
making button holes and putting on buttons') .
See Instructions for Cutting, Basting and Pressing Sleeves. — Open the back
seam from 6 to 8 inches from the wrist up. Cut the canvas on the bias, from
2/4 to 5 inches deep and baste even with the bottom of the sleeve. Stitching
at the upper part of canvas to correspond with stitching in the coat. Join the
sleeve and turn in the bottom yi mch and catch to canvas. See instructions
for pressing.
FLAP POCKET.
The flap is to be lined with soft canvas or heavy silesia. Cut the lining 4 ]/,
by 2^4 inches. Cut two pieces of cloth (running the same thread as the goods),
one for the flap and one for the facing, which should be \£ inch larger all
around. Baste the small piece of cloth on the lining for flap and round off the
lower front corner. Cut the back end of the flap, beginning 3 3 inch from the
end and slanting to the lower corner. Baste the flap to the facing, stitch y^
inch from the edge all around (omitting the top), with the canvas up. Trim the
canvas close to the seam, the cloth a shade larger than the canvas and the facing
a shade larger than the cloth. Turn the facing over, rolling the edge slightly
towards you and baste. Baste across the center part of flap and stitch the edge
to compare with the coat. Press over a damp cloth. Cut two pieces of lining
4 by 6 inches, place the flap to the marked line on the coat, the lower edge up,
the facing out. Baste with a y± inch stitch yi mcn h"0"1 the bottom edge.
Baste one piece of lining close to the edge of flap tor pocket. Stitch the flap
with a yl inch seam fastening well at each end. Stitch the lining in the same
manner with a yfo inch seam. Cut the pocket, starting in the center and cut-
ting to within y^ inch from the ends and mitre the corner to the upper seam.
Cut the canvas from the back of the seam and turn the flap down and baste
on the seam at the right side. Trim the lining in the opening and baste down.
Take the other part ot lining and baste to the back of the upper seam. Stitch
across the upper edge of flap on the right side for a finish, it will also seam the
lining. Shape the pocket lining on the wrong side. A bar tack should be
placed on each end of the pocket. Place a damp cloth on the wrong side and
press heavy. For 1 5 cents we will send a cambric model ot any pocket,
seamed and cut.
SILK LINING COAT.
Cut the silk lining for front large enough to allow a plait 1 inch deep, which
is placed from the top of the shoulder to. dart for ease. The back can be 'lit
with or without a seam, allowing for a plait 3/£ inch deep for ease. The under
arm shape and side forms are cut the same as the draftings (all parts of the lining
To Match Stripes, Plaids, Figures
and Diagonals.
Be careful in drafting your linings.
Cut the back first. Now take the
back and match it perfectly on the
goods, both faces up. Now take
the lining and replace it on the back
being careful to have it exact, and do
not move the goods. Take the side
body lining and place line A directly
over line K in the back, being care-
ful to have the waist lines even.
Now pin the side body lining fast and
remove the back and cut the side
body, being very careful not to move
it. The whole secret is to match
the sewing lines. Follow this rule
in matching the other parts.
should be cut )i inch higher at the top and I inch longer at the bottom and all
curved seams should be clipped.) Fold a plait in the center of the back and
press to keep in position. Pin the lining to the center back at the waif line ;
ease the lining up the back, keeping the fold in the center by pinning every 3
or 4 inches. Pin line K in the same manner, then pin the shoulder and down
the arm's eye. Pin the lining in position beiow the waist line. Ttr^. the lining
to the seam of the shoulder and to the seams on line K- P'n the siae form on,
beginning in the center at the waist line and pinning every 3 or 4 inches up the
center. Crease the lining even with line K, and pin and baste to the seam ready
for felling. Baste line A to the seam, allowing )£ inch fullness across the form.
Pin in position below the waist line. Baste the under arm shape in the same
manner. Shape the dart in the lining to fit the coat ; pin the lining at the top
or the dart, then across each side of the dart. Fold the plait in from the top ot
the dart to the shoulder. Begin at the underarm seam and pin aiound the arm's
eye across the shoulder and down the front as far as the top of the dart. Pin
down from the point of the dart to the waist line. Notch the seam at the waist
line and 2 inches above and pin down below the waist line. Finish pinning down
the front. Pin across the bottom, easing the lining up about \i inch. Pin up
the under arm seam 1 inch in from line E- Crease the lining at line A and P'11
and baste. Crease the shoulder at line Q and pin. Crease and pin the lining
from the back to shoulder, down the front and around the bottom. Basle,
keeping, the edge even. Fell all seams and the edge neatly.
Instructions for Basting Sleeve. — Stitch' the seams y( inch inside of the
basting. Notch the inside seam and press open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out.
Turn the lining right side out. Slip the lining on the sleeve, placing the seams
together, leaving the lining ^ inch longer at the bottom. Tack the lining at
the seams 3 or 4 inches apart. Fold in the lining to within 'g inch of the bot-
tom of the sleeve. Turn the sleeve right side out and place basting arourtd the
sleeve about 3 inches from the top. Place the sleeve in the same as waist
(omitting the lining) and press. Place the lining of coat over the seam and
tack. Crease in the sleeve lining ■ _. inch and pin at the back and front seam.
Arrange the fullness around the top and pin in position all around and fell.
TO SEW ON BUTTONS.
Fold the right side over the left. See that the waist lines meet and that the
reveres are even at the top and that the buttonholes are directly over the stay.
Place a pin through the first end of each buttonhole to the opposite end. Re-
move the button holes from the pins. Place the button at the first pin mark.
Use linen thread or twist double in sewing a button on. Buttons having holes
should be sewed on loosely. Instead of making a knot in the thread, take a
small stitch in the cloth, catching the stay and being careful not to catch the
facing. To form a shank draw up the button and twist the thread around twice
very tight between the button and cloth. Take a stitch across the twisted thread
and back through the cloth. Twist again and fasten the thread with two or
three stitches through the shank and cloth. Cut the thread close to the shank.
When covered buttons are used sew through the shank, firmly taking a small
stitch in the cloth, always catching the stay and fasten the same as in the previ-
ous instructions. Buttons with wire shanks should be attached by piercing a
small hole and placing the shank of the button through, having it run Parallel
with the button hole. Finish on the under side with a shank ring oi hea.'/
thread. When buttons are to be used as a trimming thev should be sewed on
without forming a shank.
To do pressing successfully it is absolutely necessary to have the proper
implements. A curved seam board, a large pressing board about 36 inches long
and 20 inches wide (for skirts.) A large and a small Dad and a sleeve pad and
a set of regular tailoring irons (for 50 cents we will sc.id a pattern of the curved
seam board and pads with instructions for making.) /
All canvas used in tailoring work must be shrunk. Thoroughly dampen w\C:
99
a sponge and press lengthwise until dry over a large pressing board. Never
press a curved seam over a straight surface or a straight seam over a curved seam
board. Place the seams over the seam board perfectly smooth and dampen the
full length of the seam with a sponge. Press slowly and carefully, bearing well
■in the iron to make a flat seam. All coats should have the edges and reveres
stayed with a narrow strip of linen or tape on the wrong side and it should be
put on tight when shrinking is necessary. Dampen well with sponge and press
the edges in the shape required.
All pressing should be done on the wrong side, except the finished pressing-
Take the collar and dampen at both edges and stretch thoroughly by pressing
with a hot iron, being careful not to press out of shape. Place the collar on the
board, the stitched side up. Dampen well with sponge. Hold one end of the
collar up and press in the form of a hoop, so as to obtain a round effect.
Dampen the revere along the fold and press in the same manner. (Use this
instruction after facing the collar and revere.) Do not press the fold of the col-
lar or revere fiat in any stage of the pressing.
To press the facing on a coat, take a strip of wet muslin and place over the
edge of the facing and press. Remove the damp cloth and finish pressing over
a dry cloth | continue, including the collar and revere. Before placing the
lining in the bottom of the sleeve the seams should be well pressed again.
For a finished pressing, the sleeve should be slipped over the pad shaped for
that purpose. Wet a cloth and wring out well and place over the sleeve and
press with a hot iron, using judgment to press it into the proper shape. It is
often necessary to press over several times before obtaining satisfactory results
(It depends greatly on the kind of material.) When the sleeve is stitched in
the seam must be pressed open over the end of the curved seam board. The
finished pressing of the coat should be done over the large pad. The entire
coat should be pressed, using a wet cloth and hot iron in order to remove all
creases and give a fine finish. .
To remove shine caused by pressing, use a thoroughly wet cloth and a very
hot iron. Place the coat over the pad, lay the wet cloth lightly over the shine,
hold the hot iron near the wet cloth with the right hand, with the left hand raise
the wet cloth against the iron, this will force the steam directly on the shine.
Nevr allow the weight of the iron on the cloth.
BUTTON HOLES.
Muslin
Tailor
For practice use a No. 7 needle and No. 40 thread and two or more thick-
nesses of cotton cloth basted together.
Cut the button hole (which should be a little larger than the diameter of the
button ) with button hole scissors.
Then place the strip of cloth over the fore fingers of the left hand, holding it
in position with the thumb and second finger. Hold the end of the thread near
the folded edge. See diagram No. pp.
Insert the needle from the underside 3 or 4 threads from the edge and inside
end of the hole. Draw the needle through ; insert the needle, point from you,
at the outside end of the button hole, the same distance from the edge of hole as
in first instructions, taking up an equal number of threads from the opposite side.
Draw the needle through and repeat at the inside end, the point of the needle
towards you. Go over this instruction the second time, this forms the bar for
the button hole.
. Overcast the button hole, being careful to hold the barring near the edge.
Take this stitch % inch apart, taking care to include the bar. When finished
overcasting begin button hole stitch. Insert the needle in the right hand end
(in muslin begin at the left end) of the button hole, point towards you, taking
stitch the same depth as in overcasting. Draw the needle and thread through.
Insert the needle again, a thread or two from the first stitch, pushing the needle
half way through. Now throw the thread under the point from right to left.
Draw the needle and thread out at right angles with the slit, the twist coming at
the top edge of the slit. Continue in this manner, being careful to take the
Pitches evenly. In turning the end take 7 or 8 stitches and work the other side
.0 the end. Now insert the needle through the first button hole stitch, draw
.1.^ it through and bringing it out on the opposite side. Where the side and the
£
:- ■* ■■-;
/
^S^ @L ^52^
■°3
105
;///„„:////ts/// ''fa -^
#2 4 '■ M
///AA, "
barring meet, repeat the stitch twice, then hold the thread under the left thumb.
Place the needle under the end of the bar, taking up a couple of threads. .Re-
peat in the middle and at the other end of the bar, drawing the thread through
and finishing on the wrong side. Diagram No. 100 shows the different button
THREAU NEEDLES.
Thread 20, 24 and 30, use No: 5 needle
Thread 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle.
Thread ;o and 60, use No. 7 needle.
Thread 70 and 80, use No. 8 needle.
Thread 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle. .
The size of the thread to be used depends upon the quality of the work.
To make a knot hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first fin-
ger of the right hand, wind the thread once around the end of finger, twist the
end twice into the loop with the thumb. With the middle finger pull the loop to
the end.
Place the thimble on the second finger ot the right hand. Hold the needle
between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand, the eye of the needle on
the thimble; press the needle gently between thumb and fore finger.
Always pin carefully before basting. * ( If the materials are silk or velvet, use
needles instead of pins).
Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needles (sharps.) In learning to baste take
only one stitch at a time. Careful basting prevents the seam or goods from
puckering. In even basting make the stitch about l/2 inch long on either side,
this way of basting is used for seams of dress waists and where two or more
thicknesses of material is used. Uneven basting is mostly used over large
surfaces and skirt seams and as a guide for stitching. Take 1 inch long on
upper side and jj£ inch on lower.
Diagrams Nos. 101 and 102 shows even and uneven basting.
BACK STITCH.
Use No. 50 tnread and No. 7 needle. Hold the material over the left tore
finger, holding it in place with the thumb and second finger. Insert the needle
from right to left, pushing the needle nearly through. Draw the needle out
with the thread running between the third and little finger. Repeat, taking up
a little of the cloth with the needle, according to the size of stitch desired.
Fasten the end by taking two other stitches over the last stitch.
Diagram No. 103 shows the proper stitch. Diagram No. 104 shows a halt
back stitch.
106
RUNNING STITCH.
Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needle. Hold the material between the
thumb and fore finger of the left hand. Take even stitches the same as even
basting, only smaller. Begin at the right hand corner and take stitch over tore
finger. This stitch is used when there is no. great strain on .the seam, and it is
also used as'a gathering stitch for ruffles and tops of skirts.
Diagram No. 105 shows stitch on cloth.
RUNNING BACK STITCH.
Take up two or more yi inch stitches on the needle at one time witn ■/% inch
space between. Repeat beginning in the middle of the last stitch.
A running back stitch is used when you require a stronger seam than tor a
running stitch.
- Djagiani ^o. I ob shows a running back stitch.
1 07
108
I 09
To form a hem, turn the edge of the material J^ inch and crease, then fold
the width of hem desired and baste near the edge of the first fold (on woolen or
soft materials baste the first narrow fold also. ) Hold the hem over the first fin-
ger ot the left hand, holding it in place with the thumb and second finger. In -
sert the needle in the edge of fold, point from you, y± inch from the end of
hem, taking up two or three threads. Pull the needle through, holding the end
ot the thread under the thumb. Now place the needle through the end of the hem,
needle pointing towards the left shoulder; take up two or three threads of the
cloth and the same of the fold. Continue taking the size stitch desired, being
careful to make the stitches even. In starting a new thread, place the end 01
the previous thread under the hem and start as beginning. Always cut, never
break the thread. To fasten at the finish take two or three stitches over the last
one taken.
Diagram No. 107 shows the stitch needle in position.
OVERHANDINC.
To overnand is to join the edges of cloth together, the edge can be selvedge
or creased fold.
Use a No. 70 thread and No. 8 needle. Hold the material along the edge
and around the end of the left fore finger, keeping it in place with the thumb
and second finger. In starting the seam, hold the two ends between the thumb
and fore finger, inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and M inch from
the end. Draw the needle through, holding the end of the thread under the
thumb. Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to
you, the needle pointing towards you. Draw the needle through and place it
through both ends of goods, taking -up two or three threads of the cloth. Make
the stitch close and regular.
Diagram No. 108 shows an overhand seam with needle in position.
OVERCASTING.
Overcasting is done bv taking a slanting stitch over the raw edge of goods to
prevent ravelling.
Use No. 70 thread and a No. 8 needle. Trim the edges neatly before
overcasting. Begin at the left hand end of the seam. Hold the work over the
fore finger of the left hand. Take a slanting stitch J<fj inch deep and }£ inch
apart as shown in diagram No. 109. Continue in this manner, being careful to
make the stitch even. Do not make the stitch tight.
GATHERING.
A gathering stitch is to take up several stitches on the needle having the space
and stitch equal size, or the space can be double the size of the stitch.
Use No. 40 thread and No. 7 needle. If for a skirt, first fold and mark the
center of the front. Take thread the length of l/2 the width of skirt at top
Insert the needle on the wrong side and run an even stitch to the center of the
front. Gather the other side in like manner, beginning at the center of front
around to the back. Draw up the thread to the size of the band and fasten
around a pin.
In using a double gathering be careful to. have the stitch directly under the
first. Double gathering is generally used on woolen materials and long stitches
should be taken if there is much fullness.
Diagrams Nos. 1 10 and I I 1 shows single and double gathering.
Diagram No.. 1 1 2 shows gathering inserted in the band.
Diagram No. I I 3 shows gathering overhanded to the band.
Shirring is done by making several rows of gathering directly under each
other. Mark the required number or rows at the desired distance from each
other. The gathering can be drawn up on the threads or bv cords run between
he rows.
Diagram No. 1 14 shows the shirring and stitch.
I I I
LI 2
FELL.
A fell is a seam hemmed down and is used principally for underwe»-.
Join the seam to be felled 3/& inch deep with a running back stitcn. Pea' ^
y2 of the seam next to you. Fold the seam towards you, turning under yi of
the broad seam to make a narrow hem. The fell can also be made by placing
the inner edge }i inch below the other.
Diagram No. 1 1 5 shows a fell with needle in position.
FRENCH SEAM.
A French seam is made by taking a very narrow seam with the wrong sides
of the materials together. Place the edges evenly, taking a small seam with a
running stitch, and then turn the wrong sides towards vou. Fold the right sides
together and crease at the seam, then stitch second seam with a halfback stitch,
so that the raw edges are enclosed.
jJLIND OR SLIP STITCH.
This stitch is used for fastening the roiled and invisable hem to attach folds to
garments, also the milliner's fold. For invisable hem take up one or two threads
of the cloth and before drawing the needle out, take up 1^ inch of the edge of
the fold.
In making a rolled hem and attaching folds to garments, the needle is so
placed that the inside section of the outside is caught to the under pieces.
Ficure No. 1 shows an ordinary catch stitch used to fasten down edges.
The stitch is worked from right to left. The needle is set for a stitch in the
uppe. row and then for a similar stitch in the lower row. See diagram .leedle
in position.
Figure No. 5 shows the same stitch used to finish a hem.
Figure No. 3 shows a single feather stitch. This is also known as a herring
bone or briar stitch. This stitch is worked lengthwise. Start from the right,
then to the left, keeping an even line. See diagram needle in position.
Figure No. 4 shows the same stitch applied to a hem. The latter is turned
to the right side and finished with the stitching. See diagram needle in position.
Figure No. 2 represents a double feather stitch. This is used when a more
elaborate stitch is desired. See diagram needle in position.
Figure No. 7 shows the anchor finished.
Figure No. 8 shows the Kensington stitch with the needle in position.
Figure No. 9 shows the chain stitch with the needle in position.
Ficures No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 show different styles of arrow heads in the
process of making and finished.
TO MAKE A CORRECT BIAS.
Take the corner of the goods and fold over so that the end will be even with
the edge and crease the bias fold and cut.
Diagram No. 10 shows bias strips cut and how to join.
IJ5
TUCKING.
A tuck is a fold made in the material for a trimming. Use No. 7 needle and
No. 60 thread.
7 ake a piece of stiff paper 3 or 4 inches long and I inch wide. Cut first
notch on paper the width of tuck desired. Cut a second notch three times the
width of tuck from the end of paper, this will allow the rucks to meet. Should
space be desired between the tucks, the distance required must be added to the
second notch. Now fold the goods on the line of a thiead at the desired location
of the tuck. Place the end of paper on the edge of the fold and mark with pencil
or pin at the first notch. Move the paper 1 inch to the left and mark again and
continue until tuck is finished. Now baste or stitch the tuck. To make a
second tuck place the end of the paper on the edge of the first tuck and mark at
the second notch through the single of the goods same as in first tuck, then crease
in rhe marked line, then mark a second tuck the same as the first. Now baste
or stitch the same as first tuck. Continue in this manner until the desired num-
ber of tucks are finished.
A plait is a fold generally placed lengthwise of the goods.
First fold the edge of goods under the width of plait desired. Then measure
to the left from the edge three times the width of plait. Now fold and bring
edge back to meet the edge of the under fold and tack at top of plait. Continue
in this manner for the number of plaits desired. Be careful that the fold is laid
evenly to the bottom. Tacking each plait to keep in place for pressing (press-
ing must always be done on the wrong side), this forms a knife plaiting. When
less fullness is desired a space can be left between the plaits.
For box plaiting begin at the center, folding the plait under at the right and
then at the left, the width desired.
For a double box plait, fold in another plait at each side. Always tack plait
in fold at the top Co keep in position. Only press when a flat plait is desired.
Fig. J
A placket is an opening made in a skirt. The opening is from 5 to 10
inches long and is usually placed in the center of the back seam. Turn in the
right side of the opening the width of the seam to the top of the skirt. Fold the
lining in 14 inch from the edge and fell down to the cloth. Cut the fly I J^ to
2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than the opening. Turn in the opposite side
of cloth the same width as the seam. Attach the fly to the under edge of the
fold and sew it on with a running back stitch. Turn the lining in towards the
fly and fell down as on the opposite side. Tack the fly across the bottom on
the wrong side with a back stitch wifhout catching through.
A placket in children's cloths shou:d be from 4 to 6 inches long. It is some-
times formed in the seam- of the garment, or it can be cut in the middle of the
width. At the right of the opening make a hem 3^ inch wide, the full length.
At the left make a 1^ inch hem, bringing it to a point at the bottom. Fold the
right side over on the left hem, forming a plait the width of the large hem.
Fasten with a small back stitch to the end of the opening.
A gusset is a piece of cloth cut in the shape of a triangle and used to enlarge,
and as a stay in an opening at the end of a seam. It can be cut any size
desired. Take a piece of cloth 2 by^2 inches and fold to form a triangle and
cut in the fold. Always set a gusset into a seam, never into a rent made by-
cutting down, as the hem on edge cannot be well finished ready for gussets.
Put a row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after set in.
IO
Velvets and plush should be made with the nap or pile running up.
Cloths and all other wool fabrics should be made with the nap or pile running
down.
Always cut, never tear the goods.
Clip all selvedges or cut off entirely before sewing.
Baste velvet with sewing silk, never with cotton or linen thread.
Hold velvet lightly when sewing. Use an extra piece of velvet, both piles
together.
Sponge all woolen cloths before cutting and making up.
Never piece a skirt at the top to lengthen it.
Always cut the thread, never break it.
When taking out stitches pick one out at a time, being careful not to mar or
soil the work.
Select thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as it will work lighter.
The warp threads of a cloth run lengthwise. The filling or woor runs
crosswise.
The pile or nap should always run the same way, otherwise the garment will
look as if two shades had been used. This applies to all changeable goods,
cashmeres and Henrietta cloths.
Folds or creases in fabrics must be removed before the material is made up.
For Henrietta cloths and light weight silks, split a sheet of cotton wadding
and baste between the lining and goods with the rough side next to the goods.
Always interline velvet with fine crinoline.
The slightest deviation from your measure will often spoil the garment.
In tacking shields care should be taken to catch in the binding, not through
the rubber.
Defects in the form should be overcome by padding.
Naptha or benzine are the best known agents to remove grease spots or soil if
properly used. Place a piece^of white cotton cloth under the spot or garment
to be cleaned to prevent stain marks. Apply with a soft piece of white muslin.
After the spot is removed rub with a dry cloth untiL all dampness is removed.
Do not have any fire near.
To remove creases in crapes and velvets, heat a pressing iron hot, place or
hold it bottom up. Place a wet cloth over the iron and hold the material c?0 e
down to the wet cloth so that the steam will be forced through.
BOY'S SHIRT WAIST.
Draft lines A and B l/z inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A fr°m line
B, and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
>^
"^
2
*#
*x
2 3^
3
Neck Size
8
9
IO
1 1
I 2
»3
•4
Dot 3
2 5/6
*%
z%
3
3^8
3#
3->"8
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr°m line
A, and place dot 3-
Place letter Q on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 6 '., inches on line B from dot 3» and place dot 4-
Measure 2*4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter A °n dot 3. the edge of" curve on dot 5» and draft line D the
proportionate length of shoulder. (See table).
Measure I l/2 inches less than y% of the arm's eye measure straight down
from the end of line D and place dot 6.
Place the short arm of the square on line A. the long arm on dot 6 and draft
line E straight out 3 inches from dot (}.
Without moving the square place dot 7 on line A. at the corner of the square.
Measure 1 >£ inches more than U of" the bust measure on line E from dot 7>
and place dot 8-
Measure 1 '^ inches straight up from dot 6 and place dot 9-
Place letter D on dot 9, and draft line F to dot $$•
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 9> and extend line F to the end of line J).
Measure straight down from dot 7 on line A> the length of under arm and
place dot IfJ-
Draft line (J straight out from dot 10-
Measure 1 inch more than )/± of waist measure on line G from dot 10, and
place dot \\.
Draft line H from dot 8 to dot H.
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12-
Measure \\'z inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place letter A on dot H, and draft line J to dot 13-
Draft line K straight in from dot 13 to line A.
The dotted lines show the width of plait in front.
BACK.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B Yx inch from the end of goods.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B, and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
-'8
,'/2
5/8
Neck Size
8
'-'4
9
1 74
IO
11
12
13
2 3/8
>4
Dot 3
2
2'8
2^
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A, and place dot 3-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 6 lA inches on line B from dot 3. and place dot 4-
1 Measure 1 ;4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 5 and draft line D the pro-
portionate length of shoulder.
Measure I Y\ inches less than l/^ of arm's eye measure straight down from
the end of line D and place dot 6.
Place the short arm of square on line A> the long arm on dot 6, and draft
line E °ut 3 inches from dot 6-
^ f£\ rg
Measure i inch more than y£ of" bust measure on line E from line A. and
place dot 7-
Place the 0 point of curve ^ inch in from dot 7 on line E, and draft line F
to the end of line ]).
Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2, and place dot 8-
Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9.
Draft line G from dot 8. to dot 9.
Measure I # inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8,
and place dot 10-
Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10.
Measure 4'- inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Measure )£ inch out from dot H and place dot 12.
Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12.
Draft line K straight in from dot 12 to line A.
Take measure the same as for children and omit taking the front measure.
MEASURE 8 YEARS.
Bust _ 2 ;
"Vaist _ 23
>ack _ I2i^
Under Arm r 1/
Neck ,0
Arm's Eye. n
NECK BAND.
Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure yi the shirt neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot. 2.
Draft line C i% inches straight out from dot 2.
Measure 1 y£ inches on line C from dot 2, and place dot 3.
Measure zi/^ inches out line B from line A, and place dot 4.
Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4.
Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B» and place dot 5,
Measure |/£ inch on line D from dot 4, and place dot 6.
Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6.
Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line F to dot 2.
Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 3.
Allow y£ inch for seams on lines F and G.
BOY'S COAT.
BACK.
Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line
B, and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
X
N
X
Neck Size
7
8
9
10
1 1
1 2
13
H
Dot 3
1
i)4
»tf
i-ys
*#
lS/8
aft
I 7,8
Measure vhe distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A. and place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Measure 6 }4 inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 4.
Measure 3 l/^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 5, and draft line D 1
inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure y£ inch less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight down from
the end of line D and place dot 6.
Measure j£ inch straight in from dot 6 and place dot 7.
Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line E to the end of line D.
Measure the length of" back down line A fr°m dot 2, and place dot 8.
Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9.
Draft line F straight out from dot 8.
Measure j£ inch on line F from dot 8. and place dot 10.
Draft line Q, beginning 6 inches below dot 2 and draft to dot 10.
Extend line Q to meet line A. 5 inches below dot 8.
Measure 2 inches less than i^ of waist measure on line F fr°m dot 8. and
place dot H.
Place letter Q on dot 7. and draft line H to dot H.
Draft line J straight out from dot 9.
Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and H from dot 9»
and place dot 12-
Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12.
B
BOY'S COAT.
FRONT.
Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A fr°m '>ne
and place dot 2-
XECK TABLE.
Dot 2
*x
z%
^A\ 3
1%
V/A 3%
4
Neck Size
7
8
4
9 1 lo
1 1
I z
«3
'4
Dot 3
3#
4^1 \%
4^
\%
\Vz
4?'4
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line
A> and place dot 3-
Measure 6 \4 inches from dot 3 on line B. and place dot 4.
Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on dot 5> and draft line C '
inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Place letter Q on the end of line (J, and draft a curved line to dot 3- (See
diagram) .
Draft line D straight down from the end of line (J-
Draft line E I ii inches straight out from dot 2'
Place letter C on the end of line E. and extend line E to dot 3-
Measure 2 inches less than l/2 the arm's eye measure on line A fr°m dot 2.
and place dot 6-
Draft line F straight out from dot (J, beginning 6 inches from dot 6-
Measure 1 3/£ inches less than 'i,' of the chest measure on line F from dot 6.
and place dot 7-
Measure the length of under arm measure down line D fr°m nne F> and place
dot 8.
Place short arm of square even with line A» the long arm on dot 8» a"d draft
line G out from line A ' incn more than V3' the waist measure a.id place dot 9.
Place the corner of square on dot 7. the edge on dot 9» and draft line H
down about 1 8 inches.
Place the corner of square on dot 9> tne edge on dot 7» and measure up the
distance between dot \\ and ^ in the back and place dot 10.
Place the point cf curv^ on dot 10 and draft a curved line to meet line H 6
inches below dot 9.
Measure 1 inch up line D from line F. and place dot H.
Measure 1 j4 inches straight in from dot H and place dot 12.
Place the X point of curve on dot 10, and draft to line F.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 12, and draft to the junction of lines F
and D-
Place letter K on dot 12 and draft to the end of line (J.
Measure down line H from dot 9, the distance between dots H and i* m
the back and place dot 13. ,. , j„„
Measure down from dot 8 I inch more more than the distance between dots
9 Placer tondl!4i3, the edge of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to
^ PlLe" S Ohr°pofnht tit on the end of line J and draft to the junction of
lines G and A.
To draft this coat double breasted, follow the dotted lines. Cut the collar
on the biasot the material.
BOY'S COAT SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE.
Draft line A % in^ from the edge ot cloth.
Draft line B ' % inches fr°m the end ot cl?th; , „
Measure i inch on line A from line B, and place dot 2-
Measure 2 inches less than the hand measure on line B from hne A. and
place dot 3-
Drzft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- . - ,. D „i
Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on me A from hne B, and
P ^Measure' V, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure % inch less than % of arm's eye measure straight out from dot 5
"Ivlt^ , inch more than V2 the length of sleeve from dot 4 on line A, and
place dot 7- , „
Draft line D 9 inches straight out from dot 7-
Measure ; U inches down line A from dot 7, and place dot 8
Measure \% inches more than % of arm's eye measure on hne D from dot
7, and place dot 9- . . , , j . i i
Measure . inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\.
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5-
Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8^
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 9 and draft line F to dot *.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 11 and draft me G to dot 9-
Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 1L
Place letter M on dot 6 and extend line H to dot &.
Allow ■ Xt inches on the lower end of sleeve for facing. (See diagram ) .
Mow /inch for seams on lines E and H- Cut on lines F and G-
UNDER SLEEVE.
Draft line A % inch from the edge of cloth-
Draft line B ' % inches from the end ot cloth
Measure I inch up line A from line B. and place dot 2-
Measure \ Inches less thin the measure around the hand on hne B rrom hne
A, and place dot 3
Draft line C from dot 2> to dot 3- ,. . .- id .,, i
Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on hne A from line B, and
? Measure •■, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure l% inches less than % the arm's eve measure straight out from dor
5 Meat3" P;l length of sleeve on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7-
Measure 2% inches down from dot 7 and place dot 8
Measure 3/ inch down line A from dot 8, and place dot 9-
Measure finches less than * the arm's eve measure stra.ghr out from dor 7
"'plirtht0!) pit of curve on dot 9 and draft line D to dot 10-
Note-To place dot 10 measure % ^ >«s than * °f arm'S ^ "^
ure eft line D from dot 7 and place dot 10-
Place the 0 point ot curve on line D z inches rrom dot 9 and draft to dot 8-
(See diagram).
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5-
Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8-
Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q.
Place letter G on dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3-
Allow 1 y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. (See diagram).
Allow J/£ inch seam on lines E and F- Cut on line D-
BOY'S COAT COLLAR.
Draft lines A and B J^ 'ncn fr°m the edge and end or goods.
Measure 3/jj inch on line A from une B> and place dot 2-
Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3-
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3-
Measure 1 inch more than l/2 of neck measure on line A trom dot 2> and
place dot 4-
Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Place letter H or> dot 3 and draft line E to dot 5-
Measure \i inch out from dot 4 and draft a slightly curved line to meet line
A 2 inches from dot 4.
Line E sews on the coat. Cut the collar on the bias of goods.
MEASURE FOR BOY 8 YEARS.
Chest 25
Waist 23
Back \z)/z
Under Arm 5 ]/z
Neck 10
Arm's Eye 13
Sleeve. . _ 17
Hand 7
Length of Coat 21
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY S COAT.
3t=S=lf
Chest. — Take this measure around the chest smooth not tight.
Waist. — Take this measure rather snug.
Buck. — Measure from the large joint in the back ot the neck to the waistline.
Under Arm. — Take this measure well up under the arm down to the waist line.
Arm' 1 Eye. — Take th's measure around over the point of shoulder smooth.
Neck. — Around the bare neck smooth.
S/eeve.—¥rom the point of shoulder to wrist.
Hand. — Around the hand tight.
BOY'S KNEE PANTS.
Draft lines A and B '2 incn from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure 3^ inch on line B fr°m line A> and place dot 2'
Measuie l/2 inch less than ^ of the waist measure on line B fr°m doc 2»
and place dot 3-
Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr°m '>ne B> ar|d place dot 4-
Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2.
Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure, and place dot 5.
Draft line D straight out trom dot 5.
Measure lA inch on line D from dot 5 a"d place dot 6.
Measure up line A fr°m dot 5. the inside leg measure, and place dot 7-
* Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6, extending 1 inch below dot 6-
Draft line F straight out from dot 7.
Measure }4 inch less than j{ of the hip measure on line F from dot 7, and
place dot 8.
Measure )A inch less than % the measure around the knee from dot 6 and
place dot 9.
Measure I inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Draft line G from the end .of" line E to dot 10.
Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 8.
Place the corner of square on dot 3. the short arm on line B, and draft line
J straight down to line F.
Measure z inches up line J from line F, and place dot H.
Place letter D on dot 1 1 and draft line K to dot 8.
BACK.
Draft lines A and B '_> inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Measure the distance given in the table (according to waist measure) on line
A from line B and place dot 2.
Dot 2
Waist Measure
zi/i
20 21
^A
22 23
*H
24 25
26 27
3/4
28 29
Measure 1 % inches more than % of waist measure on line B from line A
and place dot 3.
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3.
Measure 1 inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4.
Measure I }( inches from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5.
Measure 3+' inch on line C from dot 5, and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge even with line (J, and draft
line D down 4^ inches.
Draft line E from the end of line D to dot 5.
Measure I % inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 7.
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the short arm on dot 7 and draft line F
down the distance of outside leg measure.
Measure 6 inches down line F from dot 4, and place dot 8.
Draft line G 1 inch in towards line A from dot 8-
Draft line H from dot 2 to the end of line G.
Measure yt. inch less than the outside leg measure on line A from dot 2, and
place dot 9-
Draft line J straight out from dot 9.
Measure the length of inside leg measure up line A from dot 9 and piace dot
Draft line K straight out from dot 10.
Measure J^ inch 0.1 line J in from line F, and place dot H.
Measure 1 inch straight down from dot H and place dot 12.
Place letter M on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below
line K.
Measure \]/2 inches more than % of the measure around the hips on line K
from line F and place dot 13.
Measure y2 inch more than y2 the measure around the knee from dot 1 1
and place dot 14-
Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15.
Draft line Dfl from dot 12 to dot 15.
Place letter H on dot 15 and draft line N to dot 13.
Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line K and place dot 16.
Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17.
Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line 0 to dot 13.
Extend line Q from dot 17 to dot 3.
BOY S KNEE PANTS MEASURE.
8 YEARS.
Waist . . 24
Hips 34
Inside Leg Measure . I o
Outside Leg Measure 18
Knee 11^
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS.
Take the waist measure easy not tight.
Take the hip measure snug.
Take the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired.
Outside leg measure from waist line the length desired.
Knee. — Around the knee snug.
MEN'S SACK COAT.
FRONT.
Draft lines A and B lA 'ncn from the edge and end of goods.
Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. and place dot 2-
Measure l> inch less than '2 the neck measure on line B from line A> and
place dot 3-
Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 and ' Ys, inches straight down and place dot 4
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 ar|d place dot 5-
Place letter F on dot 5 ar>d draft line C t0 dot 4-
Place letter C on dot 4 and draft to dot 3-
Measure V? of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B> ar,d place dot 6.
Place letter \J on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 4 inches below dot 8-
Place the corner of square on dot 6 and draft line B straight out 8 inches,
beginning 8 inches from dot (j
Measure 3 \? inches less than \-c of the chest measure on line D fr°m dot Q,
and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A» a"d measure down
the length of front measure less the length of line C >n the back and place dot 8-
Measure lA inch less than '-i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8,
and place dot 9-
Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr°m hie B. and
place dot 10-
Place the corner of square on dot 10 and draft line E "straight out.
Place letter R on une E 8 inches from dot 10 and draft line F to dot 8-
Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 and place dot H.
Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12.
Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line Q to dot 3-
Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line B-
Measure 1 1J inches on line R from line D. and place dot 13.
Measure 1 inch less than y± of the arm's eye measure straight in from do
13 and place dot 14-
Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 and place dot 15.
Place letter B on dot 15 and draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from
line R.
Place the 0 point of the curve on dot 14 and draft to meet line S- (Use
the small round curve. )
Place letter K on dot 14 and extend line S to dot 12.
Place the corner of square on the junction of lines R and B, the edge on dot
9 and draft line X straight from dot 9.
Place letter H on dot 9 and draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7.
place- letter A on dot 15 and draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B
Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in
the back and then measure that distance down line T fr°m dot 15 and place
dot 16.
Place letter M on the end of line F and draft to dot 16.
SACK COAT BACK.
Draft lines A and B ' 'ncn from the edge and end of goods.
Measure y> inch on line A ""om line B» and place dot 2.
Measure l/> inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and
place dot 3.
Place the point of curve on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Measure the length of back measure on line A fr°m 'ine B» and place dot 4.
Measure one-fifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place
dot 5-
Measure the length of the coat (usually from 27 to 30 inches) on line A
from line B» and place dot 6.
Draft line D straight out the distance between dots 4 and 5.
Place letter }ff on line A 1 % inches below dot 4 and draft to meet line A 8
inches below dot 2-
Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 9.
Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10.
Place the corner of the square on dot 3» tne edge on dot 10 and draft line H
the length of shoulder and place dot H.
Measure l/2 inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from
dot 11 and place dot 12.
Place the long arm of square on line A. the short arm on dot 12. and meas-
ure lV inches less than % of chest measure and place dot 13.
Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H.
Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 5.
Continue line K straight to the end of line D.
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT.
Chest 1. — Around the chest, under the coat, take this measure easy not too
tight.
Waist 2." ^Around the waist, above the hips, easy not too tight.
Front J. — From joint on back of neck to the waist line in front.
Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line.
Under Ann 5. — From snug up under the arm to waist line.
Shoulder 6. — Hold tape line snug against the neck to point of shoulder.
Neck 7. — Around the neck easy above the collar.
Arm's Eye 8. — Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug.
COAT SLEEVE.
First. — From point of shoulder to point of elbow.
Second. — From point of elbow to hand.
Third. — Around arm below shoulder the width desired.
Fourth. — Around arm below elbow the width desired.
Fifth. — Around hand the width desired.
MEASURE FOR COAT.
Chest 35
Waist. 31
Front 23
Back . 20
Under Arm 10
Shoulder. - - - - 6
Neck -- - 14
Arm's Eye 18
Length - 29
COAT SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. .
Measure I inch on line A from line B» and place dot 2-
Measure I J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line B from "line A^
and place dot 3-
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3-
Measure y2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro*
line B> and place dot 4-
Measure 3+ inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5-
Measure l inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out
trom dot 5 and place dot Q.
Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2-
Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A
from dot 4» and place dot 7-
Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7-
Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7» and place dot 8-
Draft line F straight out from dot 8-
Measure J 3 of the first measure around the arm on line F from dot 8. and place
dot 9.
Measure I inch more than )/2 the first measure around the arm on line F
from dot 8» and place dot 10-
Measure 3 inches on line A from dot 7> and place dot \\.
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12.
Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line Q to dot 12.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 9 and draft to dot 12.
Measure 1 l~ inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 13.
Place letter T on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 13.
Draft line J from dot 13 to dot 6.
Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 3. /
UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B '2 inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 inch on line A from line B> and place dot 2-
Measure y2 inch less than XA the hand measure on line B from line A> and
place dot 3.
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3.
Measure yi inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fr°m
line B and place dot 4.
Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out
from dot 5 and place dot Q.
Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2.
Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A
from dot 4 and place dot 7.
Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7.
Measure 4 inches on line A fr°m dot 7 and place dot 8.
Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou:
from dot 8 and place dot 9.
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9.
Place letter Vf on dot 9 and draft line G to dot 6.
Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 3.
MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE.
Shoulder to Elbow . 15
Elbow to Wrist 10
Around Arm Below Shoulder 16^
Around Arm Below Elbow 1 5 *4
Around Hand 12
10
3 B
COAT COLLAR.
Draft lines A and B l/\ inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure I y inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line A from line
B, and place dot 2.
Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A» and place dot 3.
Draft line C 3 V? inches straight out from dot 2.
Measure 2 inches on line C from dot 2» and place dot 4.
Measure yx inch down from dot 2 on line A and draft line D to dot 4.
Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J-
Place letter K on line E 4 inches from dot 3. and draft line F to dot 4-
VEST— FRONT.
Draft lines A id B ' inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure y2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line
B, and place dot 2-
Measure ^ inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A.
and place dot 3-
Measure y inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Place letter E on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and % inch straight out and place
dot 5.
Draft from dot 4 to dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on line A. and measure down
from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and
place dot 6-
Place letter W on dot 5, and draft line D to dot 6-
Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and
place dot 7-
Place letter F on dot 7 and draft to dot 6-
Place the corner of square on dot 2 and measure straight out 2 inches more
than y of chest measure and place dot 8-
Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y, inchet
more than j£ of waist measure and place dot 9-
Place letter N on dot 9 and draft line E from dot 8 to \\/> inches below
dot 9.
Place letter Q on dot 7 and draft line F to the end of line E-
Measure 1 inch less than the shoulder measure on line B from dot 3» and
place dot 10.
Measure 1 y, inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\.
Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3-
Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12-
Measure 2 y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13.
Place letter D on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8-
Place letter 0 on dot 13 and continue line S to dot H.
Measure 2 inches in on line S from dot 8 and take a dart y inch and finish
1 y inches in.
VEST— BACK.
Draft lines A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure y inch on line A from line B. and place dot 2-
Measure y of neck measure on line B» from line A» and place dot 3.
Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2-
Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. and place dot 8-
Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up
from dot 8-
Measure 2 inches more than y of the arm's eye measure on line A h"°m line
B, and place dot 6- —
cl B
2 a 2
Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out I Y inches mo*e
than Y of the chest measure and place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out I Y inches more
than Y of waist measure and place dot 9-
Place letter H ' Y? inches below dot 9. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft
line E to dot ^ from letter H-
Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line F to the end of line E-
Measure z inches less than the shoulder measure on line B fr°m dot 3» and
place dot \Q.
Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Draft line Q from dot 3 to dot H.
Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12-
Measure 2 Y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line S to dot 13- (Use the
round edge) .
Place letter K on dot 13 and extend line S to dot \\.
NOTCHED COLLAR.
Draft lines A and B Y i"cn n'om tne e<^8e ano- en<* °^ goods-
Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line
B, and place dot 2-
Measure 2 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3-
Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 meet line A 8 inches from dot 2-
Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/2 inches straight out and place
dot 5-
Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5-
Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 5-
Place the corner of square so that the 1 inch mark will rest on lines D and E.
and draft lines P and G- (See diagram).
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST.
Chest 1. — Around the chest under the coat, just a smooth measure.
Waist 2. — Around waist under the coat easy, not too tight.
Front J. — From joint in back of neck to waist line in front.
Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line.
Under Arm j.— -Snug from under the arm to waist line.
Shoulder 6. — Hold the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the
point of shoulder.
Neck 7. — -Around the neck above the collar easy.
Arm' s .fy^.— Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug.
MEASURE FOR VEST.
Chest 34
Waist 30
Front 23
Back 20
Under Arm . . . " 10
Shoulder. 6
Neck . 14
Arm's Eye 18
TROUSERS.
FRONT.
Draft lines A and B V2 inch from the end and edge of goods.
Measure 1 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 2-
Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line B-
Measure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. and place dot 3
Draft line C straight out from dot 3-
Measure 3 incnes straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Place the corner of square on dot 4 and draft line D to meet line A 8 inches
below line B-
Measure up line A from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5-
Draft line E straight out from dot 5-
Measure the distance from knee to bottom, up line A fr°m dot 3» and place
dot 6-
Draft line p straight out from dot 6-
Measure y£ of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7
Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8-
Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9-
Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10-
Draft line 6 from dot ^ to dot 10-
Place letter D on dot 10 and continue line G to dot 8-
Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr°m li,le D and place dot H.
Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8-
Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr°m dot 4 and place dot 12-
Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12-
Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up.
Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4-
BACK.
Draft lines A and B '2 'ncn from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 lX inches more than y£ of the waist measure on line B from line
A, and place dot 2-
Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3-
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3
Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C from dot 3> and place dot 4-
Measure l± inch from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5-
Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge even with line C» and draft
line D down 4 inches.
Draft line E from dot 4 to the end of line D-
Measure y2 inch less than the outside leg measure on line A fr°m dot 3. and
place dot 6-
Draft line P straight out from dot 6.
Measure y^ inch less than the inside leg measure up line A from dot 6. and
place dot 7-
Draft line G straight out from dot 7-
Measure y£ inch less than the measure from knee to bottom on line A up
from dot Q and place dot 8-
Draft line H straight out from dot 8-
Measure 2^ inches on line G fr°m dot 7> and place dot 9-
Measure 3 yt inches less than 14 of hip measure on line G fr°m dot 9. and
place dot 10-
Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H.
Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and place dot 12-
Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9-
Place the corner of square on dot 12, the edge on dot H, and draft line J
extending 3 inches above dot H.
Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J.
Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place letter U on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up.
Measure 2 }4 inches in on line G from dot 10, and place dot 14-
Draft line K from dot 2 to dot 14-
Place the 0 point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches
up from dot 14-
Measure 2 inches more than yi of knee measure on line H from dot 1 1 and
place dot 15-
Place letter G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15-
Measure y2 inch more than yi of the bottom measure on line F from dot
12 and place dot 16-
Draft from dot 15 to dot 16-
Measure yx inch out from dot 16 on line F and place dot 17-
Place letter S on dot 17 and draft to meet line L %/4 inches above dot 16-
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.
Waist I . — Around the waist easy, not tight.
Hips 2. — Around the fullest part of hips rather snug.
Knee J. — Around the knee the width desired.
Bottom 4. — Around below the ankle the width desired.
Outside Leg Measure 5. — From waist line the length desired.
Inside Leg Measure 6. — From crotch the length desirea.
Leg Measure f. — From knee to bottom.
MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.
Waist 30
Hips - 3S
Knee 18
Bottom 17
Outside Leg 41
Inside Leg 31
Knee to Bottom 1 8
SHIRT— FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B !j inch from the end of goods.
Measure y? mcn more than y% of the neck measure on line A from line B>
and place dot 2-
Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A?
and place dot 3-
Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3-
Measure I y inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line
B, and place dot 4-
Draft line H straight out, beginning 9 inches from dot 4-
Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr°m dot 4» and place dot 5-
Measure 1 ; inches down line A from line B. and place dot 6-
Draft line D 3 % inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7-
Place the short arm of square on line B. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E
to line B-
Place letter L on line D 1 yi inches from dot 6 and draft line F to meet line
E 6 inches from dot 7-
Place letter A on line B l{ 'ncn fr°m dot 3. and draft line G to meet line E
2 yi inches from line B-
Measure -,i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8-
Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr°m
line B. and place dot 9-
Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q,
and place dot 10-
Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H.
Place letter M on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H.
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi, inch straight in and
place dot 12-
Place letter D on dot 12 and draft line S to dot 5-
Place letter N on dot 12 and continue line S to dot H.
Measure y{> inch less than the distance between dots 4 and 5 straight oul
from dot 6 and place dot 13-
Measure I y^ inches more than the distance between dots 6 and 13 straigh
out from dot 8 and place dot 14-
Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line T to dot 13-
Place letter Z on dot 13 and continue line T to dot 14.
Place the corner of square on line A ]A inch above dot 9> and Measure
straight out 3^ inches less than the distance between dots 8 and 14 and place
dot 15.
Place letter X on dot 15 and draft to dot 14-
Place letter H on dot 15 and draft to dot 9- "
BACK.
Use the fold or goods for line A-
Draft line B ,'/2 inch from the end ot goods.
Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B» and place dot 2-
Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3-
Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4-
Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold
of goods.
Measure I it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line
B, and place dot 5-
Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot
5 and place dot 6-
Measure 23 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. and place dot 7-
Measure 1 inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out
from dot 7 and place dot 8-
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9-
Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9- (Use the round
edge).
Place letter H on dot 9 and continue line E to dot 4-
Place the corner of square on line A ' inch above dot 2 and measure straight
out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10-
Place letter T on dot 10, the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from
dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve.
Place letter H on the end of line F and draft to dot 6.
Place letter F on dot 10 and draft to dot 2-
V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx A:V\.*.<v ^a<tvcL
Sleeve f d.GA.wg''
YOKE.
Draft line A l/2 'nch from the edge of goods.
Use the fold of goods for line B-
Measure yi inch less than y£ of the neck measure on line A fr°m 2ne B»
and place dot 2-
Measure the length of shoulder on line A from dot 2, and place dot 3-
Draft line C 2 }:i inches straight out from dot 3-
Measure 2 inches on line B from line A» and place dot 4-
Measure l'2 inch more than y£ of neck measure straight out from dot 2 and
place dot 5-
Place letter (J on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 5-
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line E to the end of line (J-
For an open back add y$ inch to the distance given in the third instruction
for dot 2-
SHIRT BAND.
Draft lines A and B yi inch from the edge and end of goods.
Measure 1 1'2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 2-
Measure 1 ]^ inches on line B from dot 2, and- place dot 3-
Measure 1 inch more than y^ the neck measure on line A trom line B» ana
place dot 4-
Draft line C 1 %. inches straight out from dot 4-
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2-
Place letter H on the end of line C and draft line E to dot 3-
Place letter A on line C % inch in from line E and draft to meet line E 3
inches from line C-
Place the corner of square on line E % inch from dot 3 and draft to dot %
For open front add i/^ inch from the end of line (J- (See dotted Sines).
SHIRT SLEEVE.
Use the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line B ^2 ™ch from the end of goods.
Measure 3 inches less than the hand measure on line B fr°m line A» and
place dot 2-
Measure the length of sleeve on line A from line B. and place dot 3-
Measure 1 inch more than the hand measure straight out from dot 3 ar>d
place dot 4-
Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5-
Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3-
Draft line D from dot 5 to dot 2-
Allow 1/^ inch above line C f°r facing. (See dotted lines) .
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR SHIRT.
Chest. — Around the chest, under the coat, take a smooth measure, not t5ght.
Neck. — Around the bare neck easy.
Shoulder.- — Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the
shirt, and measure to the point of shoulder.
Length. — From the joint in neck the length desired.
Sleeve — From the point of shoulder the length desired.
Hand. — Around the hand loose..
MEASURE FOR SHIRT.
•
Chest 35
Neck 14
Shoulder 6
Length 35
Hand ;o
Sleeve 1-cngth. .• . Jf.
i ^
- ■ 1
B^cK £<xcl<vg nt x 2'h vwcKes
"fefccV. f».cvt\.^ IS x /i \.v\.cV\.<if
Uknna Pattern Co.
THE LATEST
IMPORTED AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS IN
Crinoline and Paper Patterns
and Models
AT PRICES MUCH LESS THAN ELSEWHERE
Patterns Cut from Any Design
r£*t^
VIENNA PATTERN CO.
5 West 14th Street NEW YORK
*\K<
7
MAY
TOILETTES
SINGLE COPIES. 25c.
ONLY $2.00 A YEAR
The American Fashion Magazine
PRACTICAL, STRICTLY ORIGINAL
Costumes designed by AMERICA'S Leading Fashion
Artists. Always used by Manufacturers to
Show Coming Styles.
With JUNIOR TOILETTES
Best Patterns in the World Stock Sizes and Cut to Measure
Toilettes Fashion Co.
26 East 22d St. Toilettes Building New York
AGENTS WANTED AM information will be cheerfully answered by mail
Cbc Acme SelMimuctor
OF
Dressmaking and...
...Ladies' tailoring
BY
SOPHIE KLUG
No cutting or drafting system, but a book containing thirty -five
chapters of information and minute instructions on every detail of the art
— fully described and illustrated. No woman should be without it.
Price, $i.oo. Sent postpaid on receipt of price.
S. KLUG
Vienna Institute
5W. 14th St., NY.
54 WEST 23d ST., Room 22
New York.
LE PETIT HAITRE....
HOME TEACHER OF
MILLINERY
This is the only publication of the kind printed. Anyone at
all bright, and following the instructions, can readily acquire the art of
Millinery, as every point, from the making of wire frames to the
final finishing of the hat or bonnet, is fully explained.
This book we cannot recommend too highly. Madame
Melcher, the author, is the principal teacher in our Vienna Millinery
Institute, and is very competent.
PRICE $1.00
«£* •3* «5*
SEND ORDERS TO THE
Vienna Hillinery Institute
32 EAST J4th STREET
I TTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTT tt T TTT TT T T TTT T T 1 TTTT T T TTTTT 5
\ Cbe marvel of all Dressmakers ]
ClK most up-to-date ««««•«
« fashion magazine in the World.
X 16 Colored Plates
I and 32 Pages of Black and White
Illustrations — purely fashion.
\ For Sale by all Newsdealers.
Price, 15 Cents.
Subscriptions, $1.50 a year.
r If your dealer has not got it, send 15 cents for
Specimen Copy to rmHtwiiii
I ELITE STYLES CO.
L54 W. 23d ST., NEW YORK. \
SPECIAL NOTICE
It is a criminal offence punishable by fine and
imprisonment — to copy any part of our Instruc-
tion Book or our curved Rule — any person us-
ing our Curved Rule without our consent (ex-
cept with our system of Cutting) is equally guilty.
We will not permit any infringement upon our
Patents and Copyrights, any one guilty will be
prosecuted in the United State Courts to the
fullest extent. We will give $50 reward to any
one furnishing evidence sufficient to convict.
1*
THE MAGIC TUCKER
Tucks without Creasing.
Tucks in Clusters without measuring for clusters.
Tucks woolen goods without basting.
Tucks ruffles without measuring for first tuck.
Box plaits silk and other goods without leaving crease in center of plait.
Tucks in plaids. Fits any machine.
Is by far the best tucker in the market.
PRICE $J.0O
VIENNA INSTITUTE, 5 W. 14th St.
Call Printing Co.
*7 West 13th St.
N b w York
LiBKHKY uf CONGRESS
STANDARD GRAND" ROTARY
0 013 964 937 0 Q
IT IS AS SILENT AS THE TICK
OF A WATCH
Cbe new.,.
Standard Rotary
j* A NEW SYSTEM >
It is very light, very rapid and very fascinating. One-third more work can be accom-
plished by this system than can possibly be done on any of the old style machines. The
STANDARD makes both the LOCK STITCH and the CHAIN STITCH.
IT IS TWO MACHINES IN ONE
Ten minutes trial convinces the most obstinate that the Rotary
Shuttle is the Correct Principle, and the STANDARD the machine to buy.
Our NEW DOMESTIC also makes both the LOCK STITCH and the
CHAIN STITCH.
Parts and Needles for all Machines.
STANDARD SHUTTLE
A NEW TUCK-FOLDER
Especially designed for soft materials of all kinds
that will not crease. Tucking from one-sixteenth to
one-half inch and of any width of space desired. Adapted
to all of the leading Sewing Machines. Price $1.50.
CHAS. W. KATTELL,
General Agent
DOMESTIC SEWIflG PGHlflE CO. and the STANDARD SEWING PGJlIJlE GO.
3 tttest Fourteenth Street, Hew York
TELEPHONE 2534-18TB ST.
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